Why?

Why?

Cause I can, cause it’s fun, cause I was made to, cause I want to.

The question of why was asked. I’ve heard from some pilgrims that they knew why they were walking the Camino: to find God and to maybe change. Well what if that person doesn’t look for God? And what if they don’t want to change? Is that really their “why” then?

If you don’t chase a goal is that really why you’re here? If a man loves a woman but doesn’t pursue her does he really love her? If Jesus sent earth a text message saying, “Hey, btw I <3 u.” Would we still be celebrating Him? If you want something don’t you seek it? If you love something wouldn’t you give your life for it?

The Camino isn’t over and neither is life. Asking why everyday is an opportunity to be someone different. “Why?” Is like opening my eyes and seeing an exit off of the road I’m on: I can change or I can stay the same – no pressure. To say I want to change and not take the exit, not do something different, is to stay in the same lane. The turn signal is on but I drive on by.

I have two legs. I am young and physically capable. These are resources. I believe in using my assets to their full ability. Walking brings a rush of natural dopamine; especially after a large hill. The sun feels good on the skin and I read somewhere that the best way to bond with a new friend is to busy yourselves with a shared task. I’ve never been to Spain or a country with another language. I’ve never walked for miles across cities and countryside and lived as a pilgrim. I wanted to try it.

Because I can, because it’s fun, because I wanted to.

I was made to. A microwave has a purpose: to heat things. If the microwave tries to behave like a food processor then there will be many broken plates. In the same way I have a body and mind for a reason, I can use them or I can not. The Camino is my attempt at using both. A wise friend of mine told me that time will either promote me or expose me. I sincerely hope that after all this work I am promoted as a man who learned and not exposed as one who missed an opportunity.

Pension

Maddie and I blew into San Vicente along with the rainstorm. We had walked from Cobreces through a beautiful sunny day, taking our time. 

We arrived late and tired. No albergue in town. We spent maybe two hours searching and had found nothing. 

The office of tourism was closed. The only albergue was permanently closed. We both agreed not to panic.

A cafe provided us with a base so we could think straight. After some web-surfing I left Maddie at the cafe to scout out a pension down the road. It was raining fiercely and I jogged through the street dodging city folk on my way to our last option. Finally I found a black door in a small alley. 

I entered and stood in a dim, greasy hallway. Stairs to my left, wall to my right, another door directly in front of me. 

I knocked. 

Nothing.

I knocked again.

I heard shuffling behind the doorway, as if someone was coming down a hall. Fumbling at the peephole. Then nothing. 

Weird. 

I waited a few moments then knocked again. More shuffling. More fumbling. Nothing.

It occurred to me that this might not be the pension. I decided to go up the stairs.

I found myself standing in front of another black door. A light hung directly above it. A purple potted plant next to the door stretched it’s tendrils into the air giving the space an alien feel. I knocked. Shuffling.

A squat, plump man opened the door. He wore a plain grey shirt and was balding. 

“Do you have a room?” I asked in Spanish.

“Yes.”

“How much?”

“30.”

“Can I see?”

The man turned without a word and walked back into a crooked and narrow hallway. I followed and was surprised as the floor rose and fell at unusual inclines and descents down the corridor. I turned to my right and was face to face with a teen pop star. 

The poster was tacked to a door and life size. The model was posing with a hand on one hip and the other behind his head. His eyes were dark and alluring and his tight shirt was pulled up to show his stomach hair. It was a little gross. 

I followed the owner down the slanted hallway hoping he had a daughter.

The man walked straight into a dark room to his computer to log me in. I was so tired I just accepted that this was where I was staying. As I walked around his desk for him to take my passport I happened to glance at his computer screen. An arcade game was open on the screen. A cartoon princess in a frilly pink dress stood on the screen surrounded by hearts and more pink. A high score showed in the background. 

I averted my eyes quickly and then snapped a quick picture while the man’s back was turned. I hurried out of the building to fetch Maddie. I suspect that the man had no daughter.

Maddie and I returned to the pension. The man showed us to our room. Maddie, having seen the poster in the hall for herself, avoided eye-contact with the man altogether. I thanked him and shut the door. The two of us turned to find a room that seemed to be entirely filled with doily. 

The walls of our bedroom were pink, the ceiling was pink, the beds were pink, and the whole room was covered with doily. 

“What the heck?” Was the only thing Maddie and I could say to each other for about a full minute. We sank onto our beds and decided to embrace where the day had lead us. I looked out the window through the doily curtains and fell asleep below a painting of cupids in a soft pink bed.

Special Treatment

Two ladies stood side by side in the doorway. The first wore a white cape, white pants, and a paisely scarf popping out from her white jacket. Trendy turquoise slippers graced her tiny feet and matching paisely earrings rested on her cheeks. 

The second, about 12 inches the taller of the two, stood poised behind the first. Her skin was brown and wrinkled, falling from her jaw bone across her neck in thick jowls. Her hair rose up from her head like a wave, white with a purple stripe across the bangs. Two rings were on every single one of her fingers, and bracelets lead all the way up her arms into the folds of her ornately embroidered jacket. Beady eyes poked out from under false eyelashes and purple mascara, scanning the room. She oozed the distinctive fragrance of the bourgeois.

The first flashed into the room like a young girl would, smiling tightly with a practiced crinkling of the eyes. Maddie, Jacquelyn, Annie Landis, and I stood in the lobby of the albergue, credenciales half-stamped, gaping a little. 

The hospitalario desk boy, although seemingly acquainted, also gaped a little.

The first woman slithered up to Maddie’s side and rubbed her shoulders, exclaiming in flamboyant Spanish how tan Maddie was. Lifting up a strap of Maddie’s tank top the woman examined the tan line and giggled patting Maddie’s shoulder lightly and bringing her face in very close. Maddie looked back at me with “what the heck?” written clearly on her face.

The second strutted in, smiling with lips pouted dramatically and asked Annie where we were from. When Annie told her both women became very excited, and the short one seemed to vibrate in place still grinning.

They hung around as we finished checking in. As I hoisted my pack upon my shoulder the shaky desk boy stabbed a bony finger at me and said, “You four?”

“Huh?”

“You four in group?”

“Oh. Uh, yeah.”

“Want room?”

This conversation was confusing me because I couldn’t see why we would be here at all if not to get a room. It became clear that the wispy hospitalero was offering us a private room.

The short zippy woman was the owner and had apparently taken a liking to us. She escorted us to our private, 8-bunk bedroom. She flounced from bed to bed picking up pillows and beaming at us, asking us if we liked it. The gang nodded shyly and we waited till she had flitted away to collapse onto our bunks.

I glanced outside. The tall woman and a staunch Spanish gentleman in a blue suit jacket followed the owner around chortling as she waved her arms showing them her facilities. The desk boy lurched a bit in the doorway, looking to make a good impression. I stepped back into our private bathroom to take a shower. Sometimes it pays just to be yourself, and to know someone with a good tan.

Sleeping Arrangements

“MOTHER FUCKER!” Yelled Harry in the middle of the night. I rolled over into my pillow and started laughing.

“Dude bro that hurt so fucking bad.” Harry rubbed the spot on his head where he had slammed it up against the beam of the bunk above his. Six of us were crammed into tiny metal bunks in a tiny room that smelled like bleach. I wiggled my toes which poked out along with my ankles from the too-small blanket. Maddie groaned quietly. Rolling over again I dreamed of the soft beds of Saint Jean Pied-de-Port.

The beds in St. Jean had giant plush quilts and real sheets – not just disposable canvas wrapped over the mattress. The rooms were made of old wood and were were cozy and warm because of the house’s large furnace. In the morning the hospitaleros helped wake us up by playing gentle classical music through the house and the inviting smell of coffee and eggs did the rest.

The Australian man curled up with his South-African girlfriend in the bunk across from mine murmured something. They were one of those couples who hadn’t realized that they weren’t at home in bed any longer and that we could all see them perfectly well. Harry whispered something about dirty sheets.

Home is a hot topic for all of us, especially when falling asleep in hostels surrounded by strangers. During the day we talk about things we miss. Silly things mostly: TV, longer-than-5-minute showers, boyfriends, girlfriends, our own beds, Mexican food. My bedroom at home never feels crowded and certainly never dangerous.

I slept in a hostel in Torres del Rio that I’m pretty sure was run by an ex-pirate. I’m not trying to stereotype here but bandanas, hoop earrings, and a few gold teeth all scream pirate and this hospitalero was going for the look. When I ask for a bed and get a chuckle and a semi-shiny grin I reserve the right to be just a little afraid. The possibly sea-faring hospitalero led my companions and I up to the attic where A few wire bed frames and some sheet-less mattresses stood huddled together. I checked the corners for rats and hiding orphans but found nothing other than a Brazilian man standing in his underwear. We spent the night cold and hoping that the pirate would remember to unlock the attic door in the morning.

In Logroño my host was not creepy or pirate-like. She was actually kinda cute.

An oval mouth. Glossed nails. Shape like a water slide. Standing behind a counter covered in cakes and pastries. Trying to tell me something important about check out times but I’m busy checking things out. “If I was your girlfriend” plays appropriately over the cafe speakers. Shiny people of all sorts sit chatting over coffee. Everyone seems to be wearing a scarf.

Kinda-cute girl takes us on a tour of the facilities sporting personal bunks, computers, and a magic door that slides open when you press a certain picture. Kinda-cute girl over-enunciates her English words and she keeps staring at me very sternly which I think is just great. When the cops show up at midnight and I stand in the bar in my pajamas explaining to them why they found my wallet at a frozen yogurt stand, kinda-cute girl decides once and for all that I am a dunce.

“Y’all wanna get black-nasty bro?” Says Collin from his own tiny metal bunk.
“I think I’m gonna throw up.” Says Maddie.
“I wish you all could bump your head that hard too just so you know how I felt.” Says Harry.
Everyone agrees that it is too cold in the room.

The following night I stay at a hotel just to balance out my ratio of good sleeping arrangements to bad sleeping arrangements. If variety is the spice of life then El Camino is red-hot salsa picante on my nachos.