Cajun vs. Creole (food)
I would like to start this post by saying that every resource I have read gives slightly different information. History is rocky and subjective, and most of the real New Orleans food is passed on from generation to generation. With the constant changing of cultures and colonization and traditions, it completely depends on who you talk to. This is my understanding of the history of New Orleans cuisine – THUS FAR. I am constantly finding new information and learning new things that completely change my perspective!
New Orleans culture is a mesh of 7 different nationalities. Before the land was colonized, Native Americans dwelled in what is now Louisiana. The first foreigners to hit the land were the French (a group of nuns?), who brought with them classic french cuisine, which was quickly influenced by the resources that the land there provided. Soon the Spanish came in bringing their architectural flair and distinct spices. in 1720 the first slave ship was brought to Louisiana. Africans were often forced to be the cooks for Germans who came over as well, and in doing so blended all of the influences of the different foods that all the cultures that had landed in the area had with their own traditional cooking. Eventually England and Italy also found New Orleans and added even more diversity to the menus. While the history of the food is – as much of history seems to be – filled with suffering, confusion and oppression, out of it came an extremely unique and delicious way of cooking. Because the food is such a melding of cultures, there is no other taste quite like it.
Gumbo is a dish that combines every single influence into one pot. Every pot of gumbo must, to some people, have 7 different types of greens, most of which would grow along the water. The superstition says to never have an even number in your dish. Peppers, which came from the Spanish (almost always bell peppers) and other vegetables are added to a giant pot to simmer in lard for at least an hour with rice and multiple types of meat, depending on what is available at the time. The goal of this dish used to be to add as many flavors as possible. Spices added include cayenne, tabasco, mustard, sage and paprika. Water is added slowly over time as the stew simmers, until eventually a pot of spicy, meaty goodness is served.
While in New Orleans I ate a mufaletta po-boy, which is a classic sandwich very specific to the region though it is mostly influenced by Italians. A french roll is often used instead of the traditional mufaletta bread, to which ham and sometimes other meats are added along with olive oil, cheese and an olive relish. The taste was extremely salty, greasy, and satisfying with a slightly acidic aftertaste. The textures were smooth and moist. This dish demonstrates the influence that multiple cultures may have on a certain food.
Two words immediately come to mind when thinking about New Orleans cuisine – Creole and Cajun. Cajun originates from the French term “les Acadians”. The Acadians were forced out of their homes in Canada and many found their way to settle down by the Big Muddy. The Cajuns lived out on the bayou and levees, swampland, and coastal marshes using resources such as the greens that grew next to the water and hunting for local game. Creole references the flavors that came directly out of the city of New Orleans, mostly originating with the French. One article stated that the only difference you need to know is that “Creole cuisine uses tomatoes while proper Cajun food does not.”
“Creole cuisine is “city food” and Cajun cuisine is “country food.”
From what I noticed in the city, the two (millions) types of cuisine have, in the tradition of New Orleans, melded together to create common flavors.
The flavors reflect the colors and sounds. Bold, spicy, hot, unique…
Side note: These terms do not only relate to food either. Racially, New Orleans has a fucked up history and present that is often hushed and ignored in comparison to the other fun and exciting things that the city offers. There is no other way to put it, and in reality I don’t have a place to say anything on the matter because it is not my story. Something that I learned recently from a documentary of people who grew up in New Orleans speaking on this matter, for a time there were 3 “groups” of people. People who were white skinned were the top of the chain. Many were slave owners and oppressors. Then there were people with the darkest skin, who were considered the lowest. In between these two categories you had people with mixed skin, and many sources refer to this as “Creole”. “Creole has as many definitions as the people defining it.” (Spoken: Colorism and the New Orleans Creole). There is no one definition to this word, and no one way to describe it. It is a personal matter to those who identify with the culture itself. A more basic definition of Creole is relation to food is described in the paragraphs before this.