Tastes of Vietnam

By Marou Faiseurs de Chocolat, [http://marouchocolate.com/post/58397164815/products]

 

Amid the booths of world-class chocolatiers, I found Marou Faiseurs de Chocolat and I was able to better understand the mystery that is terroir.

The first chocolate that oozed on my tongue had been grown on Tan Phu Dong, a small island that makes it’s home in the middle of the Mekong Delta. The cacao had traveled along the river and over land until it reached Saigon. There, it was refined and crafted into a chocolate bar. The chocolate then traveled across the Pacific Ocean to the grey North known as Seattle. The chocolate bar was unwrapped at 2:05pm on a Saturday and eaten at minute later. It tasted of coconut and cinnamon, of humid days and long boats.

The second chocolate that I tasted came from the Ba Ria district of Vietnam. Although this chocolate was grown less than 200 kilometers from the MeKong Delta, it was as though I was savoring an entirely different food. This chocolate was fruity instead of earthy. It tasted of flowers, not spice. This chocolate was the jungle, while the first had been the desert.

These two chocolates were the results of almost the same processes, the difference being the location of cacao trees, yet they yielded vastly different flavors. As I tasted the second chocolate, I found that I did believe in terroir and the possibilities that could be.

The Business of Taste

Chocolatier with a tray of cocoa beans, By Tim Pannell, (OffSet), http://www.offset.com/photos/78200

 

The taste of high-end chocolate is changing; chocolate is being marketed to showcase it’s terroir. The industry is pushing for more “bean-to-bar” and single-origin chocolates. By understanding not only the growing conditions, but the fermentation processes as well, chocolate makers are better able to highlight the natural flavors of regional cacaos. Small-scale chocolate makers are becoming more numerous in the United States and each are trying to find their place on the market.

In the recent past, many chocolate makers have used additives (nuts, berries, spices) to distinguish themselves. The current trend is now terroir. Chocolate is being produced simply, but with great technique in order to allow for a better taste of the purity of the bean. As with the trend in cuisine, simplicity and great ingredients are being put in the spotlight. By releasing place-specific, time-specific, bean-specific, limited edition chocolate bars, chocolate makers are able to sell at a premium and distribute a great product.

 

 

3 Favorite Exhibitions

A woman holds a handful cacao beans in her hands in the small, remote village of Chuao, Venezuela, By Michael Hanson, (Offset), http://www.offset.com/search/cacao

 

Day/Time Title of Tasting/Exhibition Author/Rep Location/# of Exhibition
Sunday/12am  Hotcakes confections  Autumn Martin  47
 Saturday/1pm  Marou, Faiseurs de Chocolat Samuel Maruta and Vincent Mourou  20
 Saturday/ 11am Fruition Bryan Graham 37

5 Favorite Talks

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Day/Time Title of Talk Author/Speaker
 Saturday/4:00pm  Venezuela: from the old tradition of a paste of cacao to the “bean to bar” movement  Maria Fernanda Di Giacobbe – Chef, Entrepreneur, Artist and Chocolatier
 Saturday/3:00pm One bean+four bars from different makers=taste the difference Fruition, Dandelion Chocolate, Raaka Chocolate, and Dick Taylor
 Saturday/11:00am Taste of Hawaii: Lonohana – Starting from Scratch Seneca Klassen – Founder and Chocolate Grower, Lonohana Chocolate

Sunday/1:00pm Keynote Presentation: Price – The True Cost of Chocolate  Moderator: Sunita de Tourreil, with Speakers Chloe Doutre-Roussel, Seneca Klassen, Aubrey Lindley, Dan O’Doherty and Maya Schoop-Rutten
 Saturday/ 11:00am Building a Healthy Ecosystem for Cacao and the Future of Chocolate. Sunita de Tourreil