Terroir of a Dirty Gas Station

Two years ago a close friend, Madelyn and I set out on a long journey around the states in a post graduate search for travel and experience. We had minimal plans and for months we were just wandering as we pleased, meeting new people, living cheaply, sleeping in the car, and frequenting gas stations as well as their coffee.

Something happened one day in the northeast corner of Montana. Madelyn and I looked at each other after we took our first sips of coffee we bought inside the tiny gas station where we just filled up– and I recall looking at each other for even longer, taking more sips without losing eye contact. Almost, in disbelief we both ignored this at first, understanding that there was no way this cup of coffee– probably a robusta, probably old, in a dirty machine, in a dirty gas station, prepared by someone who looked twice as dirty as all aforementioned things–cupped higher in my mind than fancy cups of coffee I’ve bought that have so much thought behind them, crafted with the mind of an expert who is clean and precise to a science with their creations.

 

I can’t remember a cup of coffee I have enjoyed the way I enjoyed this cup of coffee. I like that this doesn’t have to make any sense, I like that nobody can tell me any differently, and good thing because I can barely remember the way that it tasted anyways.

 

How much of my experience with food and the way I perceive it to taste, is actually the substance of the food at all?

 

We credit and understand that the same foods around the world are not produced in the same way everywhere. We can mostly agree that depending how something was produced, handled, processed and so on can affect the current or final product. By recognizing this same thing in humans, that each person is different and has a cumulative past that made them that way, we begin to see how many factors really go into tasting something. Maybe terroir is so difficult to grasp because it is something that’s changing, without form, an invitation, or a template for us to begin thinking about how we think about our food, and how intimate that sometimes is.

 

To repress something because you cannot fathom it doesn’t allow the culmination of self, in taste. This personal history of our lives is created by moments of honesty within ourselves. To me, that was the most beautiful cup of coffee I have ever tasted– and why? Because I allowed it to be– even if everyone else, people who like similar coffees to me, might disagree. Taste and memory go hand in hand, everything we see, touch– experience in any way, it is due to, and specific to ourselves and without our consent, put through this filter.

 

As I recall this memory and try to bring myself back to this cup of coffee, and what exactly made it so special, I lose it more and more like it’s a dream, but the important part remains: that I tasted something that day that allowed me to recognize that there is a part of myself that knows more about me than my conscious self can make any sense of. 

 

Throughout life I think we all experience these feelings of being in an intangible moment, assigning every sensory factor in that moment, to have the terroir of it. We find pleasure in association when it can enhance something, and associations can have just as much to do with memory as they do with place. Terroir is a truly complex notion of how something can embody something else, and how the exterior experience while tasting is unconsciously associated with a flavor, the two things becoming inseparable, locked in space, time, and memory.

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Our Favorite Cafes

Name Favorite Coffee House+ Address How does this business educate coffee drinker’s about their products? Does your chosen business use any aspects of terroir? Any particularly resourceful people there? Describe your favorite coffee from there and why
Bonnie  Burial Grounds

406 Washington Street SE, Olympia, WA 98501-1152

 This business doesn’t have a great model for teaching their consumers about coffee.  I think there is possibly a lack of terroir in this coffee shop simply for the creative, yet mostly overpowering, ingredients they choose to mix their coffee drinks with. This doesn’t necessarily celebrate the taste of the land where the coffee grew. I think they gain a lot of customers due to their uniqueness, aesthetic, and they’re well liked, often sweetened espresso drinks.  I don’t like very sweet coffee myself because the combination of sugar and caffeine is overwhelming to my taste buds, and physical condition. I have a lot of friends who really like the sweet drinks here, so still frequent this place but have been able to alter recipes with the baristas here, substituting the sweetness of sugary chocolate syrup, for other things like the bitter sweetness of cocoa powder.  I realize this doesn’t have much to do with the actual coffee, but I think their knowledge of balancing flavor as well communication skills are helpful and can tell us all something about our pallets. As I mentioned I like mochas from here with cocoa powder in place of syrup. This adds a really chocolaty flavor without imparting all all the sweetness of sugar, letting the acidic bitterness of the coffee combine with the chocolaty bitterness of the cocoa powder. Sometimes I opt for hemp milk instead of regular, for a change of texture.
Daniel Traditions

300 5th Ave SW, Olympia, WA 98501

“Traditions is a member of the Fair Trade Federation, an association of fair trade wholesalers, retailers, and producers whose members are committed to providing fair wages and good employment opportunities to economically disadvantaged artisans and farmers worldwide.”  Traditions invokes an aspect of terroir with it’s sense of place. They are in tune to the values of their products and making sure they are fairly attributed. Traditions is not only a cafe but also a meeting ground for the community, holding regular talks, music, poetry, and informational meetings about our city and our world.  They’re drip coffee is especially brewed for older folks, meaning that it’s not too intense or caffeinated. I like this.
Willow  Cafe Vita

124 4th Ave E, Olympia, WA 98501

 Often if you ask the barista behind the counter about coffee, they can tell you a little bit about it. They assume most people who are inquiring are beginners and keep answers pretty basic to be understood and to be efficient, and the cafe is often busy. However, the Vita website gives a very in-depth description of their various coffees and their role in the process. Their website is easily accessible as it is the cite that appears if you connect to the cafe’s free WiFi.  I think the cafe, at least in Olympia, tries to be very neutral aesthetically. It’s a great location to study independently, have a quiet conversation with a friend, but they don’t try to define themselves, and I think are best known for having air conditioning on full blast in the heat of summer. They don’t make sweetened drinks, I think they are trying to give an appearance of class, if anything.  The owner of Vita is often in the shop, a good coffee resource, but any staff member will educate you on almost any given topic regarding the business if you express interest. I once asked an employee on which they considered to be the best brewing method for coffee (that they happened to have in the shop). The barista brought each down and demonstrated how the more complex systems (such as the AeroPress) might be used.  I like to order their Toddy, or iced coffee. Their coffee seems to hold up pretty well under ice as well as once the ice melts into the rest of the beverage. Very acidic, high caffeine content, savior of students studying at Vita in the heat of summer.

Case Studies at OCR + B&B

 

Coffee Roaster Tasting Insights Business Insights Permaculture Insights 
Batdorf & Bronson At Batdorf and Bronson we tasted a fully washed, pulp natural, and natural process washed coffee. A texture difference was noted in the comparison of the three, where a fuller body and viscosity was present in the naturally washed coffee. Batdorf & Bronson believed in buying the entire crop of coffee from the farmer versus buying the “cream of the crop”. Buying segmented amounts of one yield will make it ultimately harder for farmer’s to sell their coffee, and they most likely will not make the profit they would selling everything together. Batdorf’s business model included paying farmers before the growing season as opposed to after, once they’ve received the beans. This gives the farmers more, and better executed preparation time. Being able to pay workers with this money so their pre-season preparation goes well, workers are happier, and no costly mistakes happen due to a low budget.
Olympia Coffee Roasting Company While some liked it and some did not, we found these coffees to be mostly sour and bitter, while 2 certain types stuck out as sweet which were the San Sebastian Reserva from Columbia that tasted of sweet, baked apples and had a creamy body. Also, the Banko Natural, unique in that the mucilage from the coffee cherry is partially left on during fermentation, imparting a flavor strikingly similar to blueberries

Olympia Coffee Roasting Company's Banko Natural Organic -Ethiopia

Olympia Coffee Roasting Company’s Banko Natural Organic -Ethiopia

Olympia Coffee Roasters were serious about educating their consumers, seeing it as necessary to justify prices. They understand that people are willing to pay more for a better product, so they articulate the importance of why their product is superior to others. They accounted this to their close attention to details of quality, and their more involved relationships with those growing their coffee. Hypothenemous Hampei is the scientific name of one coffee nightmare that is the coffee boring beetle: A bark beetle endemic to Central Africa that is now distributed throughout all coffee-producing countries in the world, with the exception of Nepal and Papua New Guinea. This beetle goes after the good stuff too, predominately boring into the well enjoyed coffea arabica. OCR produced a short video displaying how they wanted their coffee growers to have the knowledge to combat this pest in order to ever have any success on their farms, and to improve the quality of coffee they would be receiving from these farms.The economic importance of this tiny insect is tremendous and is regularly determining the economic success of coffee growers. This pest can be combated in a few different ways, although it is already evolving, and the females are now being able to reproduce asexually due to the ratio of male and female beetles.

An effective and natural way of controlling borer beetles is to introduce natural predators like birds that have been shown to, in parts of Costa Rica, diminish the population by 50%. There are pesticides that can (mostly) do the trick but only before the female borer bug has entered the berry. And it should be noted- that in some regions, the beetles have shown resistance to common insecticides, showing how complex this species has evolved to be, and how much of a threat it is to the future of coffee production. (Pérez)

http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/site/cbbmanage.aspx

Jeanneth Pérez, Francisco Infante, Fernando E. Vega
J Insect Sci. 2015; 15(1): 83. Published online 2015 July 1.