Kumamoto Allstars

Group 8 - Winter Quarter 2015

Proustian Moment

Proustian Meroir by Caroline App

Oysters must be experienced with body and mind aside. I had never kept this in mind until suddenly I had picked one up, surrounded by my peers and smiling owners of Bodega Bay Co. I jumped down the rabbit hole, or so to speak walked the conveyor belt of people to the ice bed that held my pride in a little calcium carbonate shell– a strong one at that, and unyielding. I walked outside to see lush green fields, and while this comforted me I felt confused. Should my shaky fingers be tasting and slipping this oyster before I even look at it? I saw no crashing waves. No salty wind sticking to my hair and stinging my eyes. The ocean couldn’t be smelled, the sea untasted.  The occasional car drive-by, surrounded by others tasting. The shell remained between the fingers of someone who couldn’t bear to look at it. No dirty work. Get it done. Standing, lips close to the shore, I tossed my head back and the oyster shed the shell and I immediately chewed. The taste was soft and a little sweet. Like a cucumber. This was the extent of it all, I told myself. I began apologizing to the oyster for chewing at all…my mind reeling,

I hope I don’t hurt you. I hope you don’t know I’m here. Did you see me? I don’t even remember what you look like so I hope you have the same recollection.

The oyster is gone, and I taste green fields. Another car drives by.

Attributing Taste Difference to Meroir: a Poetic Discussion of Physical Location

 

Alongside the water body, oyster in hand, you resonate with your location, and you associate the brine and the sweet and the butter-tones of the small, fleshy body with the powerful force beside which you stand. You easily associate the salt and the sweet with the smell of the marine wafting up off of the water, the aroma of decay doesn’t come across as sickening when you are completing the circle of life, sucking the oyster from its shell and returning it to the powerful force beside which you previously stood.

In the green field, however, you hold a similar fleshy body, but now you are surrounded by cows and machinery and grey buildings. “Steamboat Grey”, to be specific, the dullest of tones. There are seagulls but no decay, and it seems strange; the sweet and the salt and the soft grey skin seem to come from nothing, alien– what is this soft-bodied creature doing among the grazing cows or the men with hardhats, accompanied by the roar of fierce metal instead of the roar of maternal waves?

Terroir Definition

4a) What is Meroir?

Meroir is the savoring of an aquatic location, the embodiment of ocean brine in your mouth through another vessel. The oyster serves as the most pure form of this vessel, which filters gallons of water through its grey, fleshy body, weathered by the tides and by the people who interact with the oysters, manipulating them for their own purposes.

 

Tasting: Traditional Fried Oysters for a Taste of Home

 

Willow-Creek Feighery and Caroline App anticipate the first bites of their traditional fried oysters / photo by Pat

Willow-Creek Feighery and Caroline App anticipate the first bites of their traditional fried oysters / photo by Pat

 

For our oyster video, we wanted to instill a feeling of home. Pat is from the American South, so traditional fried oysters sounded like a good way for oysters to travel cross-country into our frying pan in Pat’s kitchen!

We used Pacific oysters dipped Louisiana Traditional Fish Fry, dunked into vegetable oil five inches deep– just enough to toss them in and watch the back sizzle and turn a rich brown. The oysters transformed from lush and wet to crunchy and comforting. Since it’s chilly and wet in the Pacific Northwest it was nice to have that contrast of the sea warmed up and crunchy, still retaining its meroir — the taste of the ocean — each bite of crisped breading oosing brine and soft, creamy oceanic flesh.

Watch the video here!

Component 4: Meroir/Terroir + _____ (oysters)

4a) What is Meroir?

Meroir is the savoring of an aquatic location, the embodiment of ocean brine in your mouth through another vessel. The oyster serves as the most pure form of this vessel, which filters gallons of water through its grey, fleshy body, weathered by the tides and by the people who interact with the oysters, manipulating them for their own purposes.

 

 

4b) Attributing Meroir

 

Alongside the water body, oyster in hand, you resonate with your location, and you associate the brine and the sweet and the butter-tones of the small, fleshy body with the powerful force beside which you stand. You easily associate the salt and the sweet with the smell of the marine wafting up off of the water, the aroma of decay doesn’t come across as sickening when you are completing the circle of life, sucking the oyster from its shell and returning it to the powerful force beside which you previously stood.

 

In the green field, however, you hold a similar fleshy body, but now you are surrounded by cows and machinery and grey buildings. “Steamboat Grey”, to be specific, the dullest of tones. There are seagulls but no decay, and it seems strange; the sweet and the salt and the soft grey skin seem to come from nothing, alien– what is this soft-bodied creature doing among the grazing cows or the men with hardhats, accompanied by the roar of fierce metal instead of the roar of maternal waves?

Component 2: Natural History of Oysters

You may enjoy a broad historical understanding of what natural history studies are: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_history

For our case study of oysters, at a minimum your group should focus on the oyster species known as the Pacific oyster, Crassostrea gigas . Your discussion should address at least the following topics: life cycle and reproduction, native and cultivated geographic ranges, suitable habitat(s) for entire life cycle (include water quality parameters such as temperature, salinity, turbidity, nutrients, and toxins or pollutants), major predators, parasites or diseases, nursery propagation methods, and typical aquaculture and harvest practices, and productivity of the industry (eg. yield of oysters in specific areas or under specific conditions).   In the context of aquaculture, please include a comparison of Crassostrea gigas with the Kumamoto oyster (Crassostrea sikamea) and the native Olympia oyster (Ostrea lurida).

 

 

Besides dangerous harvesting that damages oyster reefs, there are a few major predators and diseases that can impact oyster populations.

M.F.K Fisher describes humans as being the most dangerous predator to an oyster. We have the ability to deplete oyster populations swiftly, and as a result need to farm them. Starfish can attach themselves to bottom cages and eat the oyster through its stomach. A few others she mentions are screw-borers and various mussels that can bore holes in the shells and eat them or invade their space and deny them oxygen and food.

The main diseases that affect the oyster are Dermo (the Perkinsus marinus pathogen) and MSX (the Haplosporidium nelsoni pathogen). They are both responsible for mass depletions of oyster populations as well as reduction of growth and spawning.

According to the Chesapeake Bay Office of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, Dermo is recorded in lower salinity waters in the Bay area while MSX has been recorded in higher salinity waters.  NOAA recorded that MSX is responsible for higher mortality of the two pathogens, killing oysters larger than 2 inches in higher salinity waters (>15 psu) in the Bay. “Wet years tend to have higher oyster survival (because disease intensity is reduced) but lower oyster reproduction (because spawning and settlement require water that has 10-12 psu)” ( Oysters, Chesapeake Bay Office NOAA).

According to the NOAA, there are a few ways to prevent disease of aquaculture oysters from  hatchery seeds. One way is to select strains that have been specifically used for disease resistance.  Another clever and interesting way is to grow triploid oysters in hatcheries, which are produced to have three sets of chromosomes vs the natural pair of chromosomes. The reason is triploids grow faster than diploids and will usually reach the appropriate size for the market before they become susceptible to disease.

A link below shows a diagram by EcoCheck on the NOAA Website,  human impacts on oysters:

Oyster_human_impact_diagram_SM

http://chesapeakebay.noaa.gov/fish-facts/oysters

Written by Caroline

Component 3: Field Study

Feature image by Caroline of the sea in Santa Cruz, CA.

3a) On your website complete the table of your group’s 3 favorite insights from oyster tastings done in class during weeks 4 (Tomales Bay, if you were in California), 6 (Taylor Shellfish), and 7 (Donedei Winery).

 

Group Members Favorite Oyster Tasting Location Flavor Reason
Caroline, Willow Kumamoto Bodega Bay Company Buttery, Sweet, Light, Clean, not a lot of brine The texture was smooth, not too chewy. However, we felt distressed that we weren’t eating it near the water. It was difficult to get a sense of meroir “place” surrounded by pasture farmland and green fields.
Pat, Caroline, Willow Pacific Taylor Shellfish Farm Bitter, briny, chewy We needed to compensate the bitterness of the raw oyster, which citrus would have complimented but we decided that frying them was the next best options and a little different. Pat notes that she does not like the idea of the oyster and consumer mutually consuming each other. “I would like to be the only one consuming and tasting.” -Pat
Willow, Mikko Pacific (from Santa Barbara) China Town, San Francisco Mellow, bitter, not too briny. Not very flavorful. A little acidic. Being in the San Francisco area, having a local oyster while traveling was a nice experience. Being somewhere new, having a fresh perspective on restaurant dining in an unfamiliar place.

3b) Create a 1 (one) minute video of your group savoring oysters at location of your choice.  How would you express your experience of savoring oysters in the Pacific Northwest?  What is your experience of the meroir of oysters? What is the relationship between salt and meroir?  One minute of a video addressing some aspect of at least one of these questions MUST be excerpted and posted to your website.

3d) Contemporary Business/ Native fishing rights

 

As explained by the Squaxin tribe, they were fishing and harvesting long before Euro-Americans came to take control of the waters in the sound region. Native Americans were being exploited and punished for fishing like they had done for  years. The Medicine Creek Treaty of 1854 was meant to acknowledge native fishing rights as they had existed. However, the state government ignored the rights presented in the treaty for a long time until the Boldt decision was signed in 1974, which guarantees the right to tribes listed in it throughout the Puget Sound to have half the fish caught. Euro-Americans depleted the wild oyster populations by dangerous harvesting methods and not replenishing or maintaining wild oyster habitats. The increasing demand for oysters caused this problem as culturally they have been seen as gastronomically elite and a certain palate can detect subtle flavors of the sea. The only way to continue a market that is in high demand for oysters is to farm them through aquaculture which can take on several methods. Bottom cages and lines are examples. Not all oysters develop at the same rate, and the only way to keep up with the high demand is through harvesting an oyster that gets bigger, faster: The Pacific. The Pacific is not considered the highest quality oyster but it is the highest yielding oyster so it is easy to get them to restaurants and on the menu! Oftentimes people will be on a call list of a local market or restaurant for when their favorite delicacy oysters make an appearance. For this reason, Pacifics are not typically a priority. With respect to meroir, region matters. For example, we’ve learned the Olympia oyster is small and has a very special flavor not detected in other oysters by the experts: coppery notes and a certain sweetness. They are specific to the Olympia sound area and for this reason have adopted meroir to a level that the Pacific doesn’t. We have learned appreciating the oyster and its place are crucial to truly understanding oysters at all.

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