Apr 17 2009

On Bahia Street, jazz music and Brazilian dentistry…

Published by Holly under Uncategorized

This week on Tuesday I visited Bahia Street, the non-profit educational outreach organization here in Salvador that helps young girls and women to overcome obstacles like poverty and social injustice by offering them the chance to advance their educational opportunities. It is so rare that I am actually able to see the things I read about in my studies, so visiting Bahia Street was particularly significant for me.

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I met Rita, a central figure in the book Dance Lest We All Fall Down by Margaret Willson and co-founder of Bahia Street. In some ways I almost felt like I was meeting a celebrity. Having read the book about how Bahia Street began, I felt as though I was personally invested in its success and was amazed to see how far the center has progressed since the book was published two years ago. The organization’s international office is located in Seattle, and I hope to volunteer there when I return from my study abroad.

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Rita

Every Saturday in Salvador there is live jazz music at the Museum of Modern Art. These jam sessions only cost R$4 reais (a little less than $2 dollars) and they are called jamnomam, or jam in the Museu de Arte Moderna. The museum is right on the water, so there was a wonderful cool breeze to accompany the relaxed atmosphere and lovely music. I went last Saturday with four friends and will probably go back again this weekend.

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Anna from Switzerland, Delcia from Seattle, Karen and her daughter Sazi from Vancouver, Canada.

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(I need a tripod for nighttime photography!)

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Before I left for Brazil, I had an occasional minor toothache that wasn’t causing any real problems. I was able to easily ignore it, knowing that a visit to the dentist without insurance would cost me more than I could possibly pay, even on a sliding scale. However, a couple of days ago my occasional minor toothache turned into a constant pain, and by yesterday it was nearly unbearable. My host family contacted an emergency dental clinic and sent me on my way. When I arrived, I had to pay R$120 reais (less than $60 dollars), and that included the exam, an ex-ray, local anesthesia and a filling. The only problem is that there was no cavity, which means the problem is likely more serious and I will probably need a root canal. The doctor did what she could, but told me if I didn’t feel better in a few days that I would need to go to a specialist to have the dreaded procedure. Today my tooth does feel slightly better, but it could just be because I have been taking ibuprofen by the handful. It still hurts, but I am hoping it is just lingering sensitivity from yesterday’s drilling. In any case, if I do have to have a root canal, it is best to do it here where it will cost me a fraction of what I would be charged in the U.S.

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Apr 13 2009

Balé Folclórico and Caipirinhas!

Published by Holly under Uncategorized

Last week Diálogo offered the opportunity to go to a production of Balé Folclórico, or folk dancing in the neighborhood of Pelourinho. Unfortunately, photography was not permitted, but the show was spectacular! It featured several traditional African and African-Brazilian dances, complete with live music and fantastic costumes. The dancers were so amazing and I was completely awestruck! I wish I could have taken some photos.

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Walking in Pelourinho

After the show we went to this bar:

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to have some of these:

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Caipirinhas! It is a very refreshing Brazilian drink made with alcohol distilled from sugarcane. I find them to be a little too sweet, but super delicious nonetheless!

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Os Ricardos… These are the two Richards. They are both from the German-speaking part of Switzerland and didn’t know each other before arriving in Brazil.

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Oh dear…

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What a fun night!

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Apr 09 2009

Life in Barra

Published by Holly under Uncategorized

Today concludes my second week of Portuguese classes at Diálogo here in Bahia. Tomorrow we don´t have classes in observance of the Easter holiday, and this week there have been a lot of festivities for Semana Santa. I really look forward to my air-conditioned classes each morning, but I suppose I will have to go here tomorrow instead:

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Barra Beach… Literally yards from my host family´s apartment.

Luckily, most of last weekend´s sunburn has peeled away, just in time for this weekend´s beach festivities.

This week I went to my first Brazilian dance class. We learned beginning samba steps, and did some basic dance movement choreography. I can honestly say that I have never sweat more in my life than I did during this class. I still don´t feel like I have sufficiently rehydrated. Next week I will be going to my first capoeira class.

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My host family´s apartment is on the edge of an undeveloped green space, and almost every day I see this family of micos skirting across the cement barriers of the apartment complex. I´m not exactly sure what these monkeys are called in English, but wikipedia says they are capuchin monkeys. These little guys are so common in Brazil that they are actually on the R$20 reais note.

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Next week I will be paying a visit to Bahia Street, an educational outreach center for impoverished young women and girls from the favelas of Salvador. Dance Lest We All Fall Down by Margaret Willson is a book about the author´s experiences living in Salvador for many years, and how she co-founded Bahia Street, building it into an internationally renowned organization with the help of her dear Baiana friend, Rita. Visitors to the center here in Salvador are actively discouraged, as it is a distraction for the girls studying there, but I have been granted a rare exception in support of my academic interests. Only Portuguese is spoken at Bahia Street, so today I had to put my language skills to the test. I spoke with Rita on the phone and made arrangements to visit the facility on Tuesday of next week. I am deeply honored that I have been granted this privilege, so stay tuned for a report about my visit. In the meantime, you can learn more about Bahia Street by visiting their website at www.bahiastreet.org, and even if you are only slightly interested, I highly recommend reading Dance Lest We All Fall Down. It is an amazing book, very well-written, and most importantly, a true story.

Até logo!

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Apr 07 2009

My first weekend in Brazil

Published by Holly under Uncategorized

I am still having a difficult time adjusting to the heat here in Bahia, but last weekend I was able to get out of Barra, the neighborhood in Salvador where I am living. I met a group of five women from Uruguay on Friday evening, and they invited me to go with them on an excursion to the island of Itaparica the next day on Saturday. It took about an hour by boat from Porto de Salvador, and we visited the small town of Mar Grande.

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Las uruguayas: Andrea, Gianella, Gissella, Silvana and Milena

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Porto de Salvador

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That fixture is an elevator that carries passengers down to the waterfront. It´s called Elevador Lacerda and it costs $.05 centavos.

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The view from below.

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Praça Cayru. There is a artisan market here, although we arrived too early and most people had not set up for the day.

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Mercado Modelo

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Having mate on the boat to Itaparica.

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From a distance, these little buildings look quaint and colorful, but really they are unofficial houses made of scrap materials, like in the favelas. They likely have no electricity or sewage system.

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It´s so amazing that these little shanty houses occupy the same city space as large city skyscrapers.

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Arriving at Mar Grande.

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We love the beach! Just in case you were wondering, I never tan. I am the whitest white woman Brazil has ever seen, no doubt. And, despite constantly reapplying 55 spf sunblock all day long, I still got an excellent sunburn. Eek!

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Having a refreshing beer after toasting in the sun. Salud!

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Order and… coconut!

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Salvador da Bahia

I had a fantastic day with mis amigas uruguayas. I am looking forward to meeting up with them again in Montevideo in May.

Até logo!

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Apr 02 2009

My week with No More Deaths

Published by Holly under Uncategorized

On Saturday, March 21, 2009, college students from all over the country descended upon Tucson, Arizona to volunteer with No More Deaths for Alternative Spring Break. I was the sole representative from The Evergreen State College and I traveled with a group of 14 other students from the University of Washington. We met at Southside Presbyterian Church where first they fed us, and then we began our training as humanitarian aid volunteers in the Arizona desert.
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José, Kai, Heiu and Silverio from UW

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James, Danielle, Erika and Brianna from UW

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Karina, our amazing group coordinator

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Danielle

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Silverio and José

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Rachael and me — No más muertes!

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Heading into the sanctuary to begin our training

We were given a volunteer survival packet that we were instructed to carry around with us at all times while on patrol in the desert. It contained all the various contact information for the directors of No More Deaths, along with specific dos and don’ts for various situations regarding contact with migrants and/or border patrol agents. Any time NMD volunteers encounter Border Patrol agents with migrants in custody, it is protocol to approach the situation to assess if there are migrants in need of medical care, water and food. No More Deaths also documents reported cases of human rights abuses from migrants while in custody of Border Patrol. This is part of a larger effort to enact reform at all levels of immigration policy execution.

The next morning on Sunday we continued our training. We were guided in a conversation about privilege, and the reasons why migrants come here in search of work. We discussed the political and economic factors that cause major instability in Central America, and how the United States plays a huge role in how those policies are carried out. We talked about how NAFTA only serves the agenda of the U.S., and it was brought to our attention that security along the U.S.-Mexico border tightened in 1994, the same year NAFTA came into existence. This demonstrates that the United States government absolutely KNEW it would increase the economic inequality, and actually anticipated an increase in the flow of undocumented immigrants. That’s when we started to build walls.

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Danielle and Karina

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Liz!

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Topographic map detailing many of the known migrant trails used to cross the border through the desert. As you can see, there are mountain ranges that make for an extremely dangerous journey by foot that would take about five days for someone in very good health.

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Each red dot on this map indicates where a migrant was found dead in the Arizona desert between 2001 and 2007. It is estimated that for every body found, there are ten more deaths whose remains will not be discovered.

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The original founders of the Sanctuary Movement in the 1980s. The Sanctuary Movement was a coalition of churches that offered shelter to refugees who fled Central America in order to avoid persecution from U.S.-backed government oppression. The U.S. could not recognize these migrants as political refugees because that would require taking responsibility for repressive conditions from which these people were fleeing.

After additional training on basic first aid and the importance of using common sense in the desert (drink water, drink water, drink water), we were shown a presentation by the Sierra Club about the environmental devastation being caused by the construction of the border wall. The Bush Administration used the Patriot Act to overturn 35 federal laws that protected wildlife habitat throughout the borderlands. Just flat-out broke the law in an effort to prove how easily we can waste colossal amounts of money. Never mind that it only slows migrants down by an average of five minutes, but the wall serves to destroy the lives of endangered species that are not found in other regions of the world. Migratory animals are often separated from water sources and cannot find food because they are not able to climb the walls designed to keep the people out. It makes me furious.

Sunday afternoon we packed up our cars and headed out to the camp located outside of Arivaca.

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The Washington Group

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We woke up at 6:30am each morning, ate breakfast, then took off on patrols in groups of 4 or 5 to deliver water, food and offer medical assistance in the event that we encounter migrants. None of my patrols encountered migrants, but we did encounter border patrol one day. No More Deaths is well-known and is pretty much left alone by Border Patrol under the guise that humanitarian aid is never crime. Our hikes typically lasted around 5 or 6 hours, and we used 4-wheel drive vehicles to drive out to weigh points mapped by GPS. The Arizona desert is beautiful, simply marvelous.

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Arizona is a popular destination for bird-watching. This a Vermilion flycatcher.

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Using GPS is fun!

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Our patrol leader, Gene, took us to a shrine that had been erected in honor of Josseline Janiletha Hernandez Quinteros, a 14-year-old girl who was found dead after having been abandoned by her group because she was unable to keep up with them.

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“When you feel that the path has become hard and difficult, don’t turn back, continue onward and search for the help of God. We will carry you in our hearts forever.”

Visiting Josseline’s shrine invoked a lot of emotion for me, and her family had given Gene a photo of Josseline that was taken right before she left to cross the border. Later we encountered a migrant rest area that was obviously heavily trafficked.

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Towards the end of our patrol we ascended a steep and rocky cliff that provided an amazing panoramic view of the desert terrain.

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Rachael, me and our cactus friend

The next day our patrol went to a different area.

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Brianna, riding in the back of the truck to our patrol weigh point

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Rachel

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Dominic

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There are tons of free range cattle wandering in the desert, and these are their watering holes. They are filthy cesspools of cow dung, microbes and other really bad bacteria that should absolutely not be ingested by human beings.

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Unfortunately, people do drink from them when they are on the verge of death from thirst. This only causes further dehydration from diarrhea and vomiting, making death all the more likely. We placed additional gallons of pure water here in case anyone might be compelled to drink from it.

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Who knew the desert could be so beautiful?

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On this patrol we encountered a car that had been completely stripped and was riddled with bullet holes. Very strange.

On Wednesday we made a trip to Nogales, Mexico. There is a NMD aid station there to receive migrants who have been recently deported.

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The border wall at Nogales. There are holes in the chain link fence where migrants will try to hop the border during BP shift changes.

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We served food to recently deported migrants here, at a place called the Comedor. Deported migrants are able to have two meals a day for two weeks after being deported, and must show their deportation papers in order to enter.

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After serving meals and conversing with migrants, we head back to camp in the States.

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The next day we went on another patrol.

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Me, Karina and Rachael

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Another cow pond

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Can you imagine having no other option than to drink this filthy water? It makes my stomach hurt just thinking about it…

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On Thursday we took a trip to Sasabe, Arizona, a tiny little town right on the border, in order to see this section of the border wall up close.

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If you look a little bit into the distance, you can see the mountains. This is where the wall stops. So, why not just walk around? Right… Another colossal waste of our tax dollars.

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Border Patrol wanted to know what we were doing there. Then they took off to patrol the border to make sure we wouldn’t be “harassed by angry Mexicans”.

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My experience with No More Deaths was amazing. I learned so much about border politics and human migration. I was challenged physically, mentally and emotionally during my week volunteering. I plan on returning next year to volunteer again. In an ideal world, this organization will not exist for much longer. Visit No More Deaths online at www.nomoredeaths.org to find out more information about this extraordinary humanitarian aid organization.

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Mar 29 2009

Brazil!

Published by Holly under Uncategorized

After spending a week camping in the rugged Arizona desert I have finally arrived in Salvador da Bahia, Brazil!  My experience volunteering with No More Deaths providing humanitarian aid at the border was simply amazing.  The coordinators of the Alternative Spring Break made it clear over and over again that our service was appreciated and I truly felt like I was making a difference as I was hauling gallons of water through the harsh terrain.  I will be posting a more thorough description of how I passed my time there in the very near future, along with photos, so check back soon.

I arrived in Brazil this morning without any problems, aside from having to be rerouted when the first leg of my flight out of Tucson was canceled.  Luckily I was able to check my email at the airport in Tucson before I left because my host family placement was changed two days ago… for the third time!  I was completely out of touch with the world in the desert and I just could have seen myself showing up at the wrong door when I arrived in Salvador.  But no worries, everything worked out and I am extremely pleased with my host family placement!

Tomorrow begins spring quarter, along with my intensive Portuguese classes.  My hosts tell me that I already speak Portuguese very well, although I would say I´m mostly just faking it by filling in the gaps with Spanish.  I spent the early morning wandering around my new neighborhood and am now experiencing tropical heat for the first time.  This is hot like I have never ever felt in my life!  I think I should just attach a water IV to my body because I sweat more this morning than I did all of last year.  Did I mention it´s hot?

Now it´s time to unpack and have a nap.  Até logo!

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Mar 06 2009

Sunshine on Evergreen

Published by Holly under Uncategorized

My contract has been approved!  My study abroad is official in every way.

What a great day at Evergreen!  So great, in fact, that I decided to test out my new camera right here on campus.  Enjoy!

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The ladies from the Evergreen crew team offering up some baked goods to raise money!

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Mar 05 2009

To the Southern Cone already, por favor!

Published by Holly under Uncategorized

I have the busiest week ever coming up and it already started today. Tomorrow I am coming to Evergreen to collect signatures from the International Studies Adviser, the Dean of International Programs, and Registration and Records for my Individual Study Contract next quarter. The process for an ILC is very thorough, and it will be nice to have it finally taken completed. Plus, I am really looking forward to seeing all of my Greener friends. I miss the forest so much now that I’m living back in the city.

On Saturday we are throwing a fundraiser for our group volunteering with No More Deaths at the border. I took the night off work to have some fun and participate in the festivities. On Sunday I have to work, then afterward I have an extra rehearsal with the Women’s Choir, another dress rehearsal on Monday evening, then the performance on Tuesday evening. I also have to turn my research project outline into an actual draft of my paper between now and next Thursday so that I can plan my presentation to give in class in one week. I also have two house guests this weekend and have to study for my Portuguese final that is one week from Friday. If a person could place my level of anxiety on a measurable scale, I think I would still be off the charts.

One small relief is that I just learned a friend of mine will be flying to Brazil to meet me in Rio de Janeiro at the end of April! I visited her in Europe a few years ago when she was studying abroad, and now she’s going to come and visit me. My intensive Portuguese program ends on April 24, and that means I have to leave my host family’s home the following day. I will leave Salvador on Saturday the 25th and my friend is going to meet me in Rio the next day on Sunday! While I am perfectly capable of traveling alone, I think it will be safer and more fun to have a travel buddy. She’s also going to visit Buenos Aires, Argentina and Montevideo, Uruguay with me before she flies back to the States. She is my oldest friend and fellow world traveler, and I cannot wait to visit three of the most interesting cities in the entire Southern Cone with her.

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Mar 03 2009

I’m going to grad school!

Published by Holly under Uncategorized

Yesterday I received an email from the University of Washington Bothell informing me that I have been accepted to the Master of Arts in Cultural Studies (MACS) program starting in the fall!  I’m going to grad school!  It is such a relief to know that I have a plan for the next couple of years.  Maybe now I can relax and stop planning so much… if only for a little while.  I have already decided that I will eventually be getting my PhD, and it’s just nice to know that I really am on track.

This week in my Latin American Studies seminar we are focusing on issues at the border and the immigrant experience.  This is a topic I am already very familiar with, as I have made immigration advocacy and reform a key part of my undergraduate academic research.  Today we had a guest speaker who came to present to our class about her experiences conducting research about immigrants from other countries in Central America at Mexico’s southern border, or la otra frontera.  It really opened my eyes about the complexity of border politics.  People who come from Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua and Guatemala all have to cross into Mexico before they can get to the United States, and the dangers they encounter there are far more hazardous and violent than those that await them at the U.S.-Mexico border, if you can believe that.  It’s like there is no end to the level of monstrosity that human beings are able to achieve.

Tomorrow I have a test in my Portuguese class.  I am shocked that the final exam is one week from Friday, and then the quarter is over!  I’ll be on a plane headed south in less than three weeks.  Ok, I should get busy.  I already feel the anxiety pains creeping up from my gut…

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Feb 26 2009

Just a tourist

Published by Holly under Uncategorized

I can’t believe after this week there are only two weeks left in the quarter! Of course, now I am beginning to experience the obligatory end-of-quarter sense of urgency about my final research project. This quarter I am researching the fantastic little country of Uruguay, specifically about how the people in exile during the time of military dictatorship were able to organize and practice activism from outside the country’s borders. The first country to experience a military coup during this dark era in South American history was Uruguay, which caused a mass exodus of politically left-leaning people to Argentina and Chile. People thought they were out of danger since they left Uruguay, but then the military coups began to sweep over the entire Southern Cone, and Uruguayan exiles were persecuted due to Operation Condor.

This topic is incredibly relevant to me since I will be studying abroad in Uruguay next quarter. My trip includes five weeks in Brazil, one week in Argentina and one month traveling throughout Uruguay and Southern Brazil. In all of my Latin American Studies classes, Uruguay has always been passed over, but I know from previous visits to the tiny country that there is a rich culture and history that should not be ignored!

Yesterday I received my passport with the addition of a Brazilian tourist visa! I didn’t need a student visa since I am doing an independent contract and not actually studying in a university there. My Portuguese classes are arranged through a private language school and not a public university, so as far as Brazil is concerned I’m just a tourist. I’m so relieved to have everything set up! Now I’m just waiting for March 21 to arrive…

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