I’ve been on trail for 10 days now and have walked 200 something kilometers. The adjustment period of blisters, sore muscles, and nervousness is coming to an end and I can feel my body comfortably falling back into the thru-hiking routine. My feet are a little less sore at the end of each day, my stomach becomes a deeper pit every meal, and I’ve stopped concerning myself with being smelly. Ahhh the joys of simple, nomadic livin’.
From Roncevalles we had the bright idea of walking 44 k (28 miles) to the city of Pamplona so that we could spend more time there. This wouldn’t have been a problem if we had been walking for a couple weeks already, but trying to do this week 1 caught up to [most of] our bodies. We walked from 7:30 am to 7:30 pm and by the time we spotted the promise land of Pamplona, all of 5 of us were limping and groaning on empty stomachs while squinting through the wind and rain that had decided to accompany us, desperately searching for a hostel. We were taken in by a friendly hospitalero (hostel owner) named Cesar who told us we were crazy for walking so far and raved to us about how nice the showers were— which was no lie. We were greeted by more classmates who were also in Pamplona, and got to catch up on each others Camino’s so far.
So of course being the wise young people that we are, we rallied our broken bodies to go out on the town. Pamplona was a lively city. Loud music coming out of every bar and restaurant, vendors walking around trying to sell us bracelets in the best english that they could, streets bustling with Friday night cheer, and clusters of limping pilgrims as the cherry on top.
The time came to strap on our packs and boots once again, and thus Gimp Squad was born: those of us who’s bodies just weren’t totally ready for that 44k. Our steady pace was stolen and 3 of us were left inching along with unique pains and new walking styles which were too funny not to laugh at— because yes, we were still going to walk all day like this. The next day as we are gingerly stumbling down a hill we hear “Yo, is this gimp squad?” from behind us coming from a girl we would come to know as Katie who was hobbling along just like us. Katie was a girl doing the Camino by herself, coming from Portland, Oregon. Small, small world. The 4 of us laughed our way through the pouring rain all day which made for a simultaneously miserable and wonderful day. Thanks Gimp Squad.
We rejoined the our classmates at the hostel and enjoyed a big pasta dinner with other pilgrims from all corners of the earth. How special it is that so many people from such different backgrounds can be brought together by such a simple act as walking.
After a couple slow days, my body feels recovered and the miles came easy today. The rain and wind have still not let up, and there’s no signs that it will anyday soon. I guess this is the trade off for all of our beautifully sunny days walking in France. Give and take. Misery and Wonder. Simplifying life helps to bring out this balance in everything. So on it goes!
