Chicken Prince

As an American travelling the world I tend to despise the thought of consuming American fast food. At this very moment, I’m sitting in a small Spanish cafe eating a small Spanish tortilla (sort of a thick omelette with eggs, potatoes, ham, peppers). Such feelings of hatred can, however, be erased when weeks of walking are mixed with little diversity in diet. Too. many. sandwiches. (the cheapest option). So, naturally, as Collin and I walked into yet another town and were greeted by the familiar bubble-letter logo of a Burger King, our prejudices vanished as dreams of grease boiled to life in our minds.

Of course, it couldn’t be so easy. It was siesta, as it always seems to be by the time hungry hangry pilgrims roll in to town. We checked the hours sign, a piece of paper hung on the door, resting behind the closed mesh floor-to-ceiling shutters, and learned we only had half an hour to wait. Worth it. We rested on a park bench where people passed, gawking at our battered blistered feet and sweat caked hair.

As this is my second consecutive post about food, it may seem I’m overstating the drama of dreaming of ingestible items. This is hardly the case. The imaginations of hungry hikers are prone to prolonged and  intense flashbacks of tasty treats and savory suppers. On that park bench, in the heat of the shining sun, Collin and I were experiencing the grimiest greasiest dreams imaginable. Dreams of the fast food burger, American no less, an elusive entity in Spain.

We heard the clattering sound of the metal shutters rolling up into their coiled upright position, exposing the glass door of the Burger King. It was only ten minutes past their advertised re-opening time, a respectable feat. Like fanboys, Collin and I  immediately entered at the opening of gates to the surprise of the sleepy workers. They didn’t seem used to either such enthuthiasm or business.

We looked over the menu. Cheeseburgers, bacon cheeseburgers, double bacon cheeseburgers, triple bacon cheeseburgers, Whoppers! It was classic Burger King.

After we allowed the crazed firing of excited neurons to settle at the sights of such delicacies, we approached the counter, stomachs growling.

“Puerdo una bacon hamberguessa, por favor,” I asked, salivating with every syllable.

The young employee looked at me blankly and told me in Spanish, “We don’t have burgers. No beef. We only have chicken.”

On the Camino, the average pilgrim will experience a variety of shocking encounters. The sudden unexpected change of weather, the reunion of friends you never expected to see again, the pure kindness of hospitalarios and fellow pilgrims, along with other trail magic. But no shock has ever been more truly shocking than the feeling of waiting, thinking of, dreaming of burgers at Burger King only to learn that Burger King can’t take your money and sell you a burger.

I tried to close the gaping hole of my mouth and lower my risen eyebrows and wide eyes. I scanned the menu again, struggling to find something that didn’t consist of burgers and burger meat. I ordered a chicken sandwich.

Later that night Collin and I told the story to a class friend, August. Laughing at the bizarre burger experience, or lack thereof of, he suggested that the fast food joint should change their name to Chicken Prince. Well, although Chicken Prince supplied a tasty chicken sandwich, I think I’ll stick to the Spanish tortillas.

Cream Puff Dream

Anne (Dominguez) and I arrived in the small town of Najera in the early afternoon. Siesta. In need of a bathroom, we searched the streets, walking past the typical sight of closed shutters and empty bars. Finally, we came across a small bakery, still open.
A variety of pastries laid beneath a glass counter. Butter-soaked croissants, jelly-filled cookies, and pastries I’d never seen before. One caught my eye. A tall pile of cream spiraled up from a bed of marange cookie. I wondered what it tasted like and expressed my admiration to Anne. In an attempt to resist my ever-existing sweet tooth, I left my wallet in my pocket.
Out of pure kindness, and maybe in the hopes of a snacking partner, Anne ignored my refusal and bought me the pastry and its mountain of cream. The woman behind the counter took our pastries from the display case to place them on a decorative paper, wrap them, and set them in a white box tied with a ribbon on top.
Now, in search of an albergue, we decided to call around to find a couple of beds. We approached two park benches that looked across a small cobblestone square. One bench stood in the shade of a building where I set down the pastry box. We beside sat in the sunny bench. An short, plump older woman sat beside us. Her all-black outfit matched her dark hair and her olive skin soaked up the afternoon sun.
After calling all albergues, the two of us headed to the grassy banks of the river where we laid down for a nap (I was beginning to enjoy the daily siesta). Enjoying the calming sound of the flowing river, we gazed up at the white puffy clouds. I closed my eyes.
Anne turned to me to dreamily ask, “what happened to the desserts?”
“What?” I asked, sleepily dazed.
“The pastries!” Anne responded, more urgency in her voice now. Hunger crept into my mind as I realized what I had done…
“The park bench! I left them on the shady bench. I’ll run over.” I held a brisk walk, powering through my gimp, walking along the river back towards the park bench. As I rounded the corner of the cobblestone square, I could make out the short figure of the Spanish woman in the distance, but now pastry box.
As I walked closer, I could now see the Spanish woman was holding something in her hand. Looking around, she began to lift her hand to her mouth and now I could see. A tall swirl of cream and spongy cake rose from her hand and into her mouth. My cream puff! It was her first bite. I couldn’t help but burst into laughter. What timing!
I couldn’t face her alone, so I ran back to Anne to tell her of our loss. Back at the river, I somberly chuckled the story back to Anne. We decided to walk back to tell her about our mistake and laugh with her, but by the time we walked back she was gone, along with our pastries. I wondered what that creampuff pastry would have tasted like.

Pen and Paper

Sitting in the Iruna Cafe, in the same room where Hemingway spent hours pondering his depression and gathering inspiration, I stare down at my phone. The keyboard protrudes out of the LED light. I look up. Seventeen metal chandeliers droop from the opulent gold ceiling, emitting a gold aura throughout the cafe. Aged brown pillars spurt from the ground to form a central ring. Chatter combines to form the soothing sound of white noise as warm bodies pack above the white checkered floor. The cafe is bustling.

I think about my time in Pamplona. I arrived yesterday night, after a day of dedication and sheer willpower, my group of hikers walked over 40 kilometers for a chance to take a day off in the famous city. After arriving with low morale, sore bodies, and a few newly formed limps, our gimp squad checked into an albergue, cleaned up, and hit the town. We walked down the crowded cobblestone streets where pedestrians rule the roads and cars maneuver through them. Music seeped out of the bars. We explored the city with a new sense of energy and danced with locals.

I look back down towards my phone but its digital screen remains blank. The white light of my unwritten blog post strains my eyes. I turn down my brightness.

I can’t help but feel disconnected from any sense of inspiration. It seems to be drained from the pulsing blue light of the phone, sucking it dry just as it consumes the time and drains the melatonin of my generation. At least insomnia can lead to inspiration.

I pull out my notepad and these words flow from the red ink of my pen. It’s a silly thing, really, to be stumped by the technology that is such a useful and vital part of our modern lives. But, to use Harry’s sang of his Camino, it is what it is. And, as my red ballpoint pen scratches along the paper of my Evergreen notebook, I feel as if I have balance, and this journal post is born on paper.