Rodrigo and El Cid: The Man Behind the Hype (continued)

Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar is remembered as “El Cid”- “The Lord”. A mix of Spanish and Arabic vernacular, his title reflects the complicated, multicultural age of Spain that he lived in. El Cid is legendary among the Spanish people even almost one thousand years after his death in 1099. He is romanticized as the faithful servant of King Sancho II, a decorated war hero exiled at the hands of King Alfonso VI, an ally of both the Moors and Spanish and ultimately the conqueror of the city of Valencia. In studying him I have been surprised to find that like all legends, much of what we think we know about him is not all based in fact. For this project I wanted to look at the life of El Cid for myself, using original sources and commentary from more recent historians, to understand his life and personhood based on only what we know factually about him and not just on what I’ve been told from folk tales.

 

Primary sources on El Cid (and indeed on most historical figures at this time) focus hardly at all on details like demeanor, character, personality traits, and physical appearance. We owe a lot of what we “know” about El Cid’s legend to Ramon Menendez Peidal, El Cid’s most popular biographer who published “La Espana del Cid” in 1929. This book like the famous “Cantar de Mio Cid” tends to describe El Cid the legend more than Rodrigo the man and historical figure. We actually don’t know much about Rodrigo other than what can be learned from the historical documents left behind from around the 11th century. The earliest writing that exists on El Cid is the “Carmen Campi Doctoris” a latin poem that was written by an unknown monk. My two main sources were the “Historia Roderici” an early biography written anonymously either by an individual or many bards and poets over time, and Richard Fletcher’s 1989 work, “The Quest for El Cid.” I found Fletcher’s work extremely helpful because sources like the Cantar de Mio Cid can be hard to decipher without a lot of contextual learning. Fletcher does a great job of focusing on the raw facts of El Cid’s life without trying to color in a paragon of virtue between the lines. We of course don’t know that El Cid wasn’t a paragon of virtue but I chose to stick to just what facts I could find for this study.   

 

At the time of Rodrigo’s birth, (roughly 1043) the southern half of Spain was under Moorish control and the Northern half was controlled by the Catholic Spanish kings. Rodrigo was born in Vivar in the vicinity of Burgos to an aristocratic family. The exact date of his birth is unknown but we know that he fought a battle as a young man alongside Prince Sancho II in 1063. If we factor in the likelihood that he would have probably left his family for the service of Sancho in his early teens then it is safe to guess that Rodrigo was born in the mid-1040’s; 1043 is the most popular date among historians. Rodrigo was knighted by Sancho in 1062.

 

Fletcher feels that it is important to stress that this is not a “rags to riches” story. Rodrigo was one of many warlords of his time and although he did very well for himself he was definitely born into wealth and good connections (both of his grandfathers and his father served in the court of the current ruler of Castilian Spain, Fernando I, at one point or another).

 

The battle that El Cid fought in the service of Sancho II in 1063 was the first recorded of many battles over his long military career. The mission was to overthrow King Ramiro, Sancho’s uncle who had been moving to take cities in Al-Andalus that would allow him access to the kingdom of Zaragoza ruled by al-Muqtadir. King Fernando saw this as an opportunity to be diplomatic towards al-Muqtadir and sent Prince Sancho to fight against Ramiro. King Ramiro was killed in the battle. Many legends cloud exactly how Ramiro died (one rumor involves a spy sneaking across enemy lines to assassinate him) but the exact cause of death is unsure. The Historia Roderici on the other hand simply says that Rodrigo was present at the battle and fought in Sancho’s army.

 

In 1065 Fernando moved to take Valencia but became il and died. This would set a chain of events into motion that would have dramatic impact on Rodrigo’s life and career. WIth the death of King Fernando his kingdom was divided among his three male heirs: to Sancho went castile, to the youngest Garcia went Galicia, and to the favorite Alfonso went Leon. This was great for Rodrigo’s career because now his long-time master was a king and Rodrigo became his armiger (armor-bearer or captain of the royal guard, his duties are debatable but either way it was a position of status). Rodrigo continued to serve in Sancho’s court and fight in his campaigns.

 

Alfonso had a more desirable kingdom in Leon so wars began to erupt between Alfonso and Sancho. In 1071 however Sancho and Alfonso joined forces and defeated their younger brother Garcia king of Galicia, exling him and stripping him of his kingship. For a time Alfonso and Sancho tried to rule Galicia jointly while ruling their own respective kingdoms. This of course didn’t work out and Alfonso was defeated and exiled by Sancho in 1072, exile apparently being the custom of the day rather than outright execution. Then only nine months later while King Sancho was fighting a battle in Zamora he was killed.

 

It is unclear whether or not Sancho was putting down a rebellion in Zamora or defending it from a southern Moorish invasion but either was we know that El Cid was there fighting in the battle. Sancho’s death instantly spring-boarded Alfonso out of exile and on to the throne. Popular legend of course says that Alfonso was responsible for Sancho’s death but this has not been explicitly proven. Most bibliographic sources agree that there was at least some amount of treachery involved but no historically-sound detail has been able to be provided. The Historia Roderici only tells us that Sancho died at Zamora. One biographer describes El Cid as taking on 15 knights single handedly during this battle, killing two of them and sending the rest running for their lives.

 

At this point there is a famous legend that Rodrigo made Alfonso sweat on the Bible that he had no part in the death of King Sancho and that Alfonso then accepted Rodrigo into his court begrudgingly but was always jealous of him and looked for ways of killing him. According to Fletcher there is no evidence to support this and it simply makes for a good hero story to have Rodrigo as the lone loyal knight surrounded by evil and treachery. The Historia Roderici puts it in a very different light than the pop legend:

 

“After the death of his lord King Sancho, who had maintained and loved him well, King Alfonso received him with honour as his vassal and kept him in his entourage with respectful affection.” (Unknown, Historia Roderici)

 

So it seems to me that although this isn’t quite as exciting as a tale of rivalry, Alfonso accepted him and Rodrigo, professional soldier that he was, kept on serving the king who fed and paid him. We cannot know what Rodrigo’s disposition was towards Sancho or what his feelings were at his death. Because of the many years of companionship between Sancho and Rodrigo one would assume that Rodrigo was probably saddened by the loss, but his career carried on nevertheless.

 

Over the next few years we stray again from the Hollywood ideal and see that Rodrigo was delegated several legal tasks by Alfonso, helping to judge in court and possibly collect tribute as a representative. When Rodrigo married the mysterious Jimena around 1075 (we know very little of her ancestry) we see by their wedding certificate, the Carta de Arras that two of the guarantors of the document were Alfonso’s trusted men, the count of Zamora and Alfonso’s armiger Garcia Ordonez. In fact, King Alfonso and his two sisters were even witnesses at the marriage (Fletcher, 122). These sorts of documents lead one to believe that Alfonso and Rodrigo had a healthy professional relationship and that there wasn’t as much animosity as most people believe.

 

From here Rodrigo began to make enemies in Alfonso’s court. There is a shadowy episode in 1079 where Rodrigo is sent by Alfonso to collect tribute from Seville. For some reason he ends up fighting in Cabra and leaves with important political prisoners. His biographers say that this is because another army lead by Abd Allah of Granada was attacking Seville, but given the location of Cabra – likely part of the kingdom of Granada rather than the kingdom of Seville – it is entirely possible that Rodrigo was raiding Cabra.

 

Rodrigo captured several prominent individuals connected to Alfonso’s court including Garcia Ordonez, Alfonso’s former armiger, guarantor of Rodrigo’s marriage, and much more well-connected noble. I still haven’t been able to figure out exactly what Garcia was doing there and how Rodrigo captured him, but the Historia Roderici is clear that he was among the captives. Capturing Garcia and releasing him for ransom would have been hugely humiliating for him as a political figure and a very un-hero-like thing for El Cid to do. Later on after a series of similarly sketchy events in which it appears that Rodrigo executes several unauthorized raids on surrounding territories, Garcia’s brother becomes Alfonso’s armiger. Not good news for Rodrigo. In the summer of 1081 Rodrigo is exiled, most likely as the result of breaking the law and stepping on the toes of of other nobles rather than because of Alfonso’s “jealousy”.

 

Rodrigo spends the next five years in the court of al-muqtadir, the ruler of Zaragoza who Sancho II and Rodrigo protected from King Ramiro way back in 1063. Al-muqtadir dies the year following Rodrigo’s arrival in his court and his son, al-Mu’tamin becomes Rodrigo’s new master. It is during this time period that Rodrigo fights and wins several major battles, al-Mu’tamin trusts him to lead campaigns and defend cities and this places Rodrigo in a position to rack up bragging rights and lots of money. Fletcher thinks that it is likely that the Carmen Campi Doctoris was composed slightly after the famous “Almenar Campaign” in which Rodrigo captures the count of Barcelona (Fletcher, 135).

 

Around 1085 Rodrigo was very famous and very wealthy in the court of Zaragoza. Ironically after just fighting a battle with Alfonso’s army, Rodrigo is reconciled to his original king and returns to his homeland now basically loyal to Alfonso and al-Mu-tamin. Alfonso had just suffered a decisive defeat at the hands of the invading African Almoravide army and needed the skills of someone like Rodrigo behind him once more. This sort of flip-flopping loyalty is possibly one of the reasons why we get a picture in folk-lore of Alfonso as a cowardly and weak king, but it was more likely just the nature of the mercenary politics of the day; El Cid was a professional warlord, and now he was a famous, rich professional warlord.

 

After his reconciliation to Alfonso in 1085 El Cid spent the remainder of his career defending Spain from the Almoravide army in between his own conquests. El Cid had his sights set on the city of Valencia, the city that King Fernando I had not been able to take for himself. Alfonso was his master and El Cid still fought alongside the Muslims at times but his focus on Valencia showed that he was after territory to call his own.

 

When the Almoravide army became aggressive again in 1092 El Cid took it as his opportunity to lay siege to Valencia. El Cid rode victorious into Valencia in 1094 after a two year-long siege. The Cid set up Valencia to be his domain, independent of the masters he had been serving. This gave El Cid even more power although he doesn’t seem to have necessarily turned against Alfonso or Mu-tamin.

 

El Cid ruled in Valencia until his death in 1099. Valencia then fell back into Almoravide hands until 1171. El Cid’s rule in Valencia was short but in the end he did what no warlord before him could do and he died victorious.

 

*****

 

“Everyone knows El Cid Campeador.” I was sitting with my Spanish friend Alicia beside a fountain. “We are taught his story from childhood.”

“Would you say that his legend and life have had any effect on yours?” I asked.

Alicia shrugged and nodded.

“We grow up knowing his story, he is a great Spanish hero.”

El Cid’s body rests at the cathedral in Burgos. I had the chance to visit and noticed that the grave is roped off. Crowds of Spanish people and tourists from other countries gathered around it and information about El Cid played over their guided tour headsets.

 

El Cid the man, Rodrigo, is somewhat lost to time. We have no way of knowing what his character was like, how he talked, if he was kind, if he was the knight that people remember him as. El CID the legend is celebrated as a hero and Spanish icon. El CID the legend was brave and noble and taught the lesson of serving even when it inconveniences you. As Alfonso tried to get rid of El Cid, he kept on serving until his exile.

 

In the end I am a bit disappointed in my findings in El Cid. I have accomplished my goal and am now familiar with his life’s story but judging by the facts he might not have been the hero I thought he was. In my reading I have only been able to flesh out glimpses of his true character and life, one cannot judge whether he was so simple as to be “good” or “bad” what I do know is that he left an impressive mark on the world by being exceptionally opportunistic; even in exile he was able to make life work to his advantage and he therefore accomplished what even kings before him couldn’t.

 

To me it is perhaps better to remember El Cid the legend. True or not I can learn from the chivalry and honor that is sung about in “Cantar de Mío Cid”. Rodrigo died and so did much of who he was, but his legend is still teaching by example; be honorable, brave, patient, and shrewd and then Valencia will be yours.

 

List of Sources:

 

  • Anonymous, Historia Roderici

 

  • Fletcher Richard, The Quest for El Cid

 

  • Hitt Jack, Off the Road

 

  • Pidal Menendez Ramon, La Espana del Cid

 

  • Unknown, Cantar de Mio Cid

 

  • Unknown, Carmen Campi doctoris

The Warmth of the Hearth

The name “Aidan” in the original Gaelic language means “warmth of the hearth” or “fiery.” My name is Aiden, but despite my hipster parents the meaning remains the same. 

It’s tempting to write a cop-out paper for this self evaluation. I learned so much on the camino that I feel I could write a paper on each aspect. I could write about my Spanish companions who taught me to speak their language, on my feelings of elation at learning I can walk across Spain without using a bus, on arriving lonely in France and gathering a group of friends, or even on watching my classmates – learning from their victories and their struggles. But none of that would be my most important lesson.

“Why is it so hard to be honest?” Is something I feel like I’ve been praying often on this trip. When Maddie told me she was having nightmares I wanted to help. “Pray for her” I heard the voice in my head say, “show her that you care.” 

To be vulnerable is the biggest challenge of the Camino. Even as I walk exposed to the wind, rain and sun, as I pound my feet into the rocks and dirt, sleep in public albergues, and purposefully leave the comfort of my home, why is it still hard to ask someone to walk beside me? Or to tell someone that I want to be friends?

Walking with many different people has shown me that I’m not alone. We are tempted to complain, to talk about our aching feet, or television, or other people and their problems – anything to not talk about our own selves. I learned that if I wanted anyone to be vulnerable with me then I had to first be vulnerable with them.

To talk about my life, what has made me me, my dreams, my fear of failure, my triumphs, my struggles with my mother, my struggles with sex, my faith in a God I’ve never seen, took courage. But when I was down in the thick, tar-like topic of my own crap I began to observe a change in others.

It was like things got warm. If I’m jacked up then they’re allowed to be too. They can tell me their story because they’ve heard mine. I’m taking my mask off so they can too.

After I prayed with Maddie, weeks after she told me about her nightmares the first time, not a lot changed. She kept having nightmares, but it was different: we could talk openly now, and we had shared something beyond “How’s it going?” “Good!”

Other opportunities came. I prayed with Roció for her sick uncle, I prayed with Annie, I wrote back and forth to August sharing writing pieces, I walked and talked with anyone who would let me. I began to practice being the warmth of the hearth – if someone was around me I just wanted to make them feel warm, to feel heard. I journaled what I saw as I practiced.

The challenges of the Camino – the loneliness, the need to survive, the homework, the sheer distance of the thing, etc. taught me that I can survive, and handle more than I thought I could. But If all I learned how to do was smile, to really listen to someone, to show that I cared, to make them feel warm in a cold environment, then I would gladly take that as my prize.

The logs of my vulnerability stoked a fire and when others joined in the fire got bigger and warmer. It’s awkward to be vulnerable and I’m still learning how to do it well, but I want to be someone who people can be themselves with. With practice and time I hope to learn to change the temperature of a room and be the warmth of the hearth.

Academic Statement

There were riots on the news. 

Given the recent political turmoil on 2017 this was nothing new. What was surprising to me was that the riots were at Evergreen, a 20 minute drive from my house. Never mind what they were about, they looked intense and a bit uncomfortable. I had been looking to go back to school and what better place than somewhere uncomfortable?

I began attending Evergreen that fall studying Asian-American pop culture. Writing became my focus as I struggled with it much more than reading the texts and talking in peer groups. After Fall quarter I was set on taking a program that focused exclusively on writing. At least until a bigger challenge appeared.

I had never heard of El Camino and I was not interested in traveling to Spain. Through a scheduling fluke I ended up in the last program I expected to be in – Walking to Santiago de Compostela, a pilgrimage across the country of Spain. 

I learned and wrote about discomfort while walking through the mountains, hills, forests, and beaches of Spain. I had to learn Spanish to survive, I had to make new friends, I had to live in a strange country carrying all my belongings on my back. Constantly on the move, I learned that almost any problem could be solved if I just kept walking. I started my journey in France and when I arrived on the West coast of Spain I knew a thing or two about discomfort and I had the blisters to prove it.

Faculty Evaluation

Bill was always in touch on the Camino but mostly absent physically. I appreciated his hands-off approach, it gave the students a chance to struggle and forced us to survive on our own. Bill took the time to sit and talk with me about my writing and class matters whenever I asked him to. Many pilgrims on The Camino told me that this was an incredibly original and valuable class.

Why?

Why?

Cause I can, cause it’s fun, cause I was made to, cause I want to.

The question of why was asked. I’ve heard from some pilgrims that they knew why they were walking the Camino: to find God and to maybe change. Well what if that person doesn’t look for God? And what if they don’t want to change? Is that really their “why” then?

If you don’t chase a goal is that really why you’re here? If a man loves a woman but doesn’t pursue her does he really love her? If Jesus sent earth a text message saying, “Hey, btw I <3 u.” Would we still be celebrating Him? If you want something don’t you seek it? If you love something wouldn’t you give your life for it?

The Camino isn’t over and neither is life. Asking why everyday is an opportunity to be someone different. “Why?” Is like opening my eyes and seeing an exit off of the road I’m on: I can change or I can stay the same – no pressure. To say I want to change and not take the exit, not do something different, is to stay in the same lane. The turn signal is on but I drive on by.

I have two legs. I am young and physically capable. These are resources. I believe in using my assets to their full ability. Walking brings a rush of natural dopamine; especially after a large hill. The sun feels good on the skin and I read somewhere that the best way to bond with a new friend is to busy yourselves with a shared task. I’ve never been to Spain or a country with another language. I’ve never walked for miles across cities and countryside and lived as a pilgrim. I wanted to try it.

Because I can, because it’s fun, because I wanted to.

I was made to. A microwave has a purpose: to heat things. If the microwave tries to behave like a food processor then there will be many broken plates. In the same way I have a body and mind for a reason, I can use them or I can not. The Camino is my attempt at using both. A wise friend of mine told me that time will either promote me or expose me. I sincerely hope that after all this work I am promoted as a man who learned and not exposed as one who missed an opportunity.

The Cathedral

The Cathedral was full of people. People in the pews, people standing under the arches, people painted on the walls, sculptures of people hanging in the rafters and holding up the golden artwork. Hundreds of statues depicting saints and cupids climbed up and down the two gigantic pipe organs high up on the walls. 

“Catholics have the best churches” breathed Aidan quietly.

The mass began and we sat. A nun sang and led us in worship. Only Anne Domínguez understood the Spanish so the rest of us worshipped in our own ways. I bowed my head and prayed, others did similarly, some sang, others observed patiently. I tried to spy the person playing the organ but couldn’t find them from my vantage point in the back rows of the sanctuary. I’m still not sure if the music was recorded or not.

The priest would say something and then everyone would chant back in unison. The only words I could catch were, “Y con su espíritu.” – “and with your spirit.” The priest would often raise both of his arms when he spoke and there were several other priests standing around at the altar wearing red robes and nodding agreeably. 

As the service continued I thought to myself that if Jesus were to come to church we might have to teach Him how to do it. He would have to learn about ushers, confessional booths, tithe baskets, hail mary prayers, etc. 

As our way of worshipping God has evolved some very unusual things have been developed. We all were very excited when they swung a giant incensor across the room and any oddity was basically lost in the wonderful slapstick of the thing. People kept sneaking up behind the statue of James and hugging him mid-service. The priest carried the cup of communion wafers down the isle and myself and others lined up to receive it. 

As the paintings and sculptures showed, people enjoy being a part of things. The cathedral in this case was a building dedicated to God full of people and depictions of people. People come from far and wide to see it; and most people seem to get a kick out of it. Maybe it isn’t narcissism though, maybe people just love celebrating their role and connection to their faith. If you’re given a gift why not be proud that it’s yours?

The gang and I left the cathedral quietly. The service had been pleasant and we decided to go and celebrate our completion of El Camino and each other with some gelato. A new tradition of celebration beginning.

Ballota

Ballota had a nice beach, so we stayed. Anne R. And I went scouting for albergues/ pensions while Annie and Maddie guarded the packs. Anne and I walked a bit and found nothing but more gardens and shrubs. We saw no people in the streets. Our last stop was a large pink building on the main road. 

We entered an ornate hallway, paintings on one side, a floor length mirror on the other. Old yellow wallpaper everywhere. No one seemed to be home so we started exploring. 

I poked my head in a doorway and found a wall-size painting of a woman in a ball gown. She had a small smile and raised eyebrows. She looked docile, and not unlike the Mona Lisa. The room was also full of antiques, including a crystal chandelier, a sofa, an armchair, and a dressing divider that all looked very old. 

I turned to Anne.

“Do you think this place is haunted?”

“Oh it’s mad haunted dude.”

I couldn’t decide if that was a pro or a con. We checked upstairs and down and found no one. The stairs creaked eerily and there were several black and white pictures of ancient aristocrats. I decided on con.

We walked back out into the sunshine. 

Annie ran up to us.

“I got an albergue guys! Thirteen euros!”

*****

Later Anne and I stirred from our afternoon slumber and went to go find Maddie and Annie at the beach. None of us had actually seen the beach yet, we had just heard a rumor that Ballota had a nice beach. I asked the desk lady how to get to the beach and we set off.  

We trekked for maybe two kilometers down a steep dirt hill. Trees arched over us and the trail wound down to the rocky shore. The beach had very little sand but lots of rocks. All along the beach opposite the water were steep cliffs of stone. 

No sign of Maddie and Annie. 

Anne spotted it first.

“Dude it’s a cave!”

Sure enough, dug into the side of the largest of the cliffs was a narrow cleft. On closer inspection we realized that it didn’t go very deep, but Anne was fascinated.

Anne and I made our way back up the hill as she told me about Neanderthals. Neanderthals used to live in caves similar to the one we had found on the beach. Anne pointed out the red clay in the trail that the Neanderthals used for their cave paintings. She told me about their jewelry that they made and how the introduction of currency and trade ended their art for thousands of years. Anne has a passion for anthropology and archaeology and it’s fun to hear her get excited about it.

We returned to the hostel and found Annie and Maddie. They hadn’t actually been able to find the beach so they had spent the afternoon sitting together on a cliff near the ocean. No beach day, but we had each walked and talked with someone we hadn’t spent much time with. We went to bed knowing more about each other and that made our stop in Ballota worth while.

Church at Sobrado

Annie had been gone all afternoon. Aidan and I had done our laundry, gone to the supermarket and were unloading our groceries when we finally saw her again. 

“Where have you been all day?” I asked.

“In the cathedral, you guys have to come check it out!”

There wasn’t much else to do so we followed.

We entered in through the bead curtain that lead to the back of the chapel. Instantly the temperature dropped 15 degrees. The sunlight faded away in the hall behind us. 

It was dark like a cave. Shafts of light from the windows showed clouds of dust hanging between the building’s arches. Vines were in the rafters and on the walls along with patches of moss and green algae. 

There was no ornamentation. No relics. And therefore no tourists. Only Jesus, nailed to the cross, looked out at us from the gloom. He hung in the center of the building; alone.

We became silent. After fifteen minutes, I left. 

Annie Landis and I sat in the sun for a while thinking. 

“I was hoping you were going to sing.” 

I turned to Annie, surprised. “Really? Why?” Annie shrugged.

“I don’t know. I was just hoping you would.”

Later that night we returned; Aidan, Anne D., Annie Landis, and I. The atmosphere was the same. Again we stopped talking and sat quietly. For a long while we all sat, praying and thinking. I felt Annie’s eyes on me. I breathed in deep and sang.

I’m not sure what my friends believed in that night. But as I sang out the words of my favorite worship song it felt like worship wasn’t coming from me alone but from all of us. My last notes echoed out and we fell silent again. After a while we left quietly.

We had church in Sobrado in a thousand year-old building dedicated to Christ. I realized later that the church felt powerful because of it’s lack of extra fixtures. The cupids and saints in other churches are pretty but the message of the gospel will always be as simple as Christ alone, hanging there for humanity. Annie told me later that that night was one of the highlights of her Camino.

Singing With Cheryl

In the kitchen I cleaned the plates from dinner. I put two pumps of soap on the sponge (Annie says that that’s too much) and I cleaned each surface twice before rinsing. I sang as I cleaned, whatever song came into my head. I started with Valarie by Amy Winehouse which became a Fall Out Boy song which somehow became Amazing Grace. Amazing Grace was what was in my head when Cheryl came in to help.

“Oh what a lovely tune!” Cheryl exclaimed. “Let’s sing it together.”

We started from the top. Her soprano voice reverberated off of the stone kitchen walls. I shyly sang out in a lower voice to compliment her. Cheryl bustled around the kitchen pinching my elbows and directing me where to put the pots and pans. She kept on singing while she did this and I began to sing louder to match her.

“T’was grace that taught my heart to fear, and grace, my fears relieved.”

When the song was finished Cheryl clapped excitedly. 

“How wonderful! Let’s sing another.”

I didn’t know any more hymns but she insisted I try anyway. She sang on and I hummed the verses and chimed in on the choruses once I caught the words. Annie and Aidan watched us from the doorway as we held church service in a 5×5 kitchen.

“Do they sing these songs in South Africa?” 

“Of course dear! Do you know the 23rd psalm?”

“Yes of course.”

“This is how we sing it in Afrikaans.”

Cheryl grabbed my arm tightly, snuggled in to my side and began to sing again. I stood awkwardly and looked into Cheryl’s eyes as she sang the entire song 3 inches away from my face. Annie and Aidan grinned out of the corner of my eye. Cheryl meanwhile squeezed tighter and sang sweetly a psalm I knew every word to in a language I didn’t understand.

“That’s how we sing it in South Africa.”

“It’s beautiful, thank you.”

“Yes dear. Would you all like some coffee?”

It was almost eleven so we turned Cheryl down. Cheryl told us that coffee would make us ready to sleep. 

“I’m pretty sure that’s not true.” Said Annie, but Cheryl paid her no mind. She only started singing again as the last plate found it’s home.

Pension

Maddie and I blew into San Vicente along with the rainstorm. We had walked from Cobreces through a beautiful sunny day, taking our time. 

We arrived late and tired. No albergue in town. We spent maybe two hours searching and had found nothing. 

The office of tourism was closed. The only albergue was permanently closed. We both agreed not to panic.

A cafe provided us with a base so we could think straight. After some web-surfing I left Maddie at the cafe to scout out a pension down the road. It was raining fiercely and I jogged through the street dodging city folk on my way to our last option. Finally I found a black door in a small alley. 

I entered and stood in a dim, greasy hallway. Stairs to my left, wall to my right, another door directly in front of me. 

I knocked. 

Nothing.

I knocked again.

I heard shuffling behind the doorway, as if someone was coming down a hall. Fumbling at the peephole. Then nothing. 

Weird. 

I waited a few moments then knocked again. More shuffling. More fumbling. Nothing.

It occurred to me that this might not be the pension. I decided to go up the stairs.

I found myself standing in front of another black door. A light hung directly above it. A purple potted plant next to the door stretched it’s tendrils into the air giving the space an alien feel. I knocked. Shuffling.

A squat, plump man opened the door. He wore a plain grey shirt and was balding. 

“Do you have a room?” I asked in Spanish.

“Yes.”

“How much?”

“30.”

“Can I see?”

The man turned without a word and walked back into a crooked and narrow hallway. I followed and was surprised as the floor rose and fell at unusual inclines and descents down the corridor. I turned to my right and was face to face with a teen pop star. 

The poster was tacked to a door and life size. The model was posing with a hand on one hip and the other behind his head. His eyes were dark and alluring and his tight shirt was pulled up to show his stomach hair. It was a little gross. 

I followed the owner down the slanted hallway hoping he had a daughter.

The man walked straight into a dark room to his computer to log me in. I was so tired I just accepted that this was where I was staying. As I walked around his desk for him to take my passport I happened to glance at his computer screen. An arcade game was open on the screen. A cartoon princess in a frilly pink dress stood on the screen surrounded by hearts and more pink. A high score showed in the background. 

I averted my eyes quickly and then snapped a quick picture while the man’s back was turned. I hurried out of the building to fetch Maddie. I suspect that the man had no daughter.

Maddie and I returned to the pension. The man showed us to our room. Maddie, having seen the poster in the hall for herself, avoided eye-contact with the man altogether. I thanked him and shut the door. The two of us turned to find a room that seemed to be entirely filled with doily. 

The walls of our bedroom were pink, the ceiling was pink, the beds were pink, and the whole room was covered with doily. 

“What the heck?” Was the only thing Maddie and I could say to each other for about a full minute. We sank onto our beds and decided to embrace where the day had lead us. I looked out the window through the doily curtains and fell asleep below a painting of cupids in a soft pink bed.