“Of the approximately 250,000 plant species on our planet, about 50,000 are edible, yet only 15 crops provide 90 percent of our calories. Wheat, corn, and rice provide 60 percent, yet only a tiny fraction of their vast biodiversity is grown in the modern field.” (Rogosa, 4)
“We do not need waving fields of monocropped grain like the Midwest mega-farms. Landrace wheat is a welcome addition to small scale, diversified cropping rotations. It builds soil, breaks disease cycles of vegetable crop pests and pathogens, and yields enough for a year’s supply of fresh-milled, homemade bread, or for a seed exchange, or a backyard seed company…” (Rogosa, 38)
Many producers and consumers alike regard wheat as a low value commodity crop, with little need to improve its nutritional value. Almost every culture grows and consumes wheat; some have cultivated it for over 12,000 years, making it the oldest domesticated crop. Although humans have learned a great deal through recent technological advances and industrialization, there is a singular mindset in wheat production. This mindset includes not weighing important variables, such as soil health and residual chemicals found in processed grain. Through heavy chemical use wheat is now grown uniformly, densely, and “efficiently” but is extremely weak, and lacks adequate nutrition. Education is required for small farmers to understand the benefits of landrace grains for both their land, and the health of their consumers. Knowledge of heritage grains must simultaneously be spread through communal discourse to create an accepting population of consumers.
Wheat is the most extensively grown crop on Earth. In modern day farming, there are predominately only a few varieties grown, which have all been modified to grow in a homogenous nature. The roots of these varieties are short, unable to reach organic nutrients deep in the soil, and cannot support the plant during unforeseen weather. The perceived benefits of modern wheat are that great quantities of uniform grain can be produced, and the procedure is “easily” replicated for similar results each year. These farming practices are extremely high input; they kill the microorganisms, and flush the natural minerals from the soil. This wheat has high gluten, specifically high glutein; the part of gluten that influences elasticity and bubbling when used in a baking application. The gluten levels are much higher than ever before, causing more intolerances and obesity in consumers. “Wheat gluten contains a unique carbohydrate called amylopectin-A, which sends blood sugar soaring higher than table sugar or a candy bar. Its high-glycemic carbohydrates stimulate our appetite with the druglike by-products of gluten proteins. We get fat.” (Rogosa, 9) Heritage grains have much lower levels of glycemic carbohydrates, and contain balanced nutrients that allow smaller portions to be more satisfying than larger ones of modern wheat, and do not increase appetite.
Landrace grains, specifically heritage varieties such as emmer or einkorn provide high levels of important nutrients not found in modern wheat. Consumers of these grains maintain proper hunger levels because they are receiving sufficient nutrients, while modern wheat products leave them hungry due to lack of nutritional content. In addition to substantial health benefits, heritage grains are resilient and need considerably less input to sustain healthy growth. The roots of many heritage grains grow far deeper in the soil to bring in more nutrients and moisture, even during droughts. The leaves on these varieties also have 500 percent greater leaf coverage than modern wheats. (Rogosa, 11) This leaf coverage not only increases photosynthesis, and photo-nutrient intake, but also shade-suppresses weeds. Heritage grains naturally grow with vigor; however, modern wheat is forced to grow.
Before the 19th century thousands of varieties of landrace wheat were cultivated; each one genetically self-modified to suit its climate. Certain governments have made it increasingly difficult for farmers to grow native grains through legislation, and price of imported modern wheat. Reintroducing these nearly lost varieties is challenging and time consuming due to limited seed availability. Small quantities of these seeds are obtainable, although the only way to grow them on a large scale is to individually select and save seed. Over time new landraces can form that are resistant to localized diseases and weather. When immunities are restored in the grains, farmers will be able to work with others in their own microclimates to propagate these heritage grains and improve health in their communities.
Education is imperative for the reemergence of heritage grains, and the restoration of landrace attributes. The first step to reintroduction is to teach the farmers how ancient grains are not only healthy, but can be a lucrative addition to their normal rotation aid in loosening soils, and improve pathogen pressure. The consumer is the second step of the equation. Health must be broadly recognized as a balance that places proper diet at the forefront. A relationship must be formed between producers, processors, and consumers. When everyone maintains a steady dialogue with one another, only then will a product like heritage wheat be readily available and understood.