Week 10

I’ve had several interactions with the Thurston Conservation District this week, I signed the final paperwork required to secure the grant for a new bridge! The Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife listed Puget Sound Chinook and Coho Salmon, Western Pond Turtle, and Coastal Cutthroat Trout as species in the vicinity of the proposed bridge project. Also required was a cultural resource (archaeological) survey, fortunately we are able to move forward with the project.

 Thurston Conservation District office

 

Salix for Catkins

Pussy willows are dioecious, males are generally grown because they are more visually appealing. Salix are a good growing choice for the Puget Sound region, they tolerate very poor, wet, or compacted soil. One of the best species for the floral market is Salix gracilistyla, Japanese or rose gold pussy willow. It produces long rosy hued catkins that dry well and can be kept for several years. The plant grows 10 X 5 feet, making it an ideal size for harverting.

Week 9 : What is Enterprise for Equity?

I enrolled in the business readiness program Enterprise for Equity, (E4E) the course consist of weekly meetings from 5:00 to 9:00, every Tuesday evening on Union Avenue in downtown Olympia. Participants were required to take two day workshop prior to applying for enrollment, in that workshop we examined the feasibility of our business ideas, dreams, and plans. Each week we work on sections of our business plan such as our mission statement, market planning, operations, cash flow, and field research. We have had several guest speakers such as an insurance agent,a tax expert, a lawyer, a copy editor, and a graphic artist. Our instructor Joanne has provided us with a wealth of research and resources to help conduct our field research and business feasibility.

 

They have been helping people in the south sound area with limited incomes start small businesses or improve existing business since 1999.

They grow entrepreneurs by providing:

  • Training and Support
  • Technical Assistance
  • Access to Credit

Getting a bit of help from Earl with my homework.

Asexual Plant Propagation

Asexual or vegetative reproduction is possible with all plants if there is the presence of meristematic tissue, it occurs naturally by means of:

  • Runners (strawberry plants)
  • Tubers (potato)
  • Rhizomes(horsetail)
  • Bulbs (tulips)
  • Corms (gladiolus)

 

Humans can manipulate vegetative propagation through means of cuttings,

  • Hardwood cuttings (roses, deciduous trees)
  • Softwood cuttings (lavender)
  • Grafting (fruit trees)
  • Dividing (perennials such as daisy)
  • Root cuttings (Japanese anemones)
  • Leaf cuttings (Christmas cactus, snowdrops)

 

The advantages of asexual reproduction are only one parent plant is needed to reproduce offspring, which is genetically identical or a clone. This ensures that desirable traits and good features are continually passed on through generations without mutations or variations in the plants, this feature is especially important in plants prized for their showy flowers, such as roses and dahlias. Asexual reproduction is usually much faster than propagating by seed, a good example would be the buttercup plant, which quickly colonizes by means of runners. Asexual reproduction also requires less energy to reproduce, it does not expend energy in creating flowers to attract pollinators, nor is it dependent on wind or insect pollination.

 

The disadvantages to asexual reproduction is lack of genetic diversity, the offspring are clones of the parent plant with no diversity which makes them unable to quickly adapt to the stress of disease and pest pressure. Rapid changes in the climate or growing conditions could be the cause of extinction.

 

Sexual reproduction in flowering plants produces offspring that are genetically different from the parent plant, this creates diversity, which can improve the chance of survival. Plant diversity and mutations will create offspring that are better able to respond to disease and pest pressures, as well as changes in growing conditions. Fertilized seeds can be dispersed great distances by means of wind and bird transfer, this enables the plant to spread and not compete with itself for light and nutrients. Unique variations or new breeds are created through genetic diversity in plants.

Week 8: Sowing Seeds

 

This week I had the pleasure of working with Beth, the co-manager at Evergreen’s organic farm. We escaped the tempestuous weather by working in the heated greenhouse, starting seeds in flats and gearing up for the upcoming spring class.

I used this nifty seeding trowel, it helps control the amount of seeds dispersed in the trays, some of the heirloom tomato seeds cost $1.00 each! I had not realized a packet of seeds could be so costly. I thought back to last summer, remembering the bountiful harvest of tomatoes we had on the farm, it is amazing that each tiny seed  is capable of bearing  big beautiful tomatoes in the span of six months.

 

 

 

Butch the cat enjoys the seed heated seed mats the help facilitate germination rates.

 

Practicum: Raspberries

Raspberry plants flourish in our northwest climate, but it is important to start the crop off correctly by choosing a site with well drained soil and full sun, they can be grown in raised rows if standing water is a concern in the winter. They should be planted 2 1/2 feet apart in rows spaced 8 to 10 feet, raspberry flowers are self-fertile, pollen is transferred by visiting insects seeking nectar. I would choose to trellis using a standard cross system at 4 1/2 feet in height. The ideal PH range is 6.0 to 6.5, if the PH is less than 5.5 lime should be applied to ameliorate the soil.

There are two main cultivars of raspberries, summer-bearing (June-Bearing) and Fall-Bearing (Everbearing). The roots and crown are perennial with a lifespan of thirty to forty years, the canes are biennial, primocane is the first year growth and floricane is the second year growth. It is a good idea to keep the two cultivars in separate beds, this will insure that the correct pruning cuts are performed at the right times throughout the year.

June Bearing

Summer bearing raspberries initiate flower buds on first year canes (primocanes) from August through September, the canes overwinter, bloom, and produce fruit the following spring and early summer. While the fruiting canes (floricanes) are bearing fruit, new green primocanes begin to emerge, commencing the cycle for next years’ crop of berries. After harvest the old fruiting canes should be removed to allow for light and air circulation on the new primocanes, this will promote healthier growth and maximize yields the following year. Topping primocanes in the fall leave the susceptible to frost damage, instead wait until February and trim the tops 6 inches from the top of the 4 1/2 foot trellis wire, this forces lateral branches, improving the size and quality of the fruit. I would extend the growing season by choosing a variety of June bearing cultivars based on their harvest season as follows:

Willamette: short early harvest season

Meeker: Long mid-season

Algonquin: Mid-late season

Sumner and Chilliwack: Late season

My raspberry bed at home, before pruning

 

 

 

After Pruning

Wooing with Wood Violets Week 7

Every morning I walk my son down our long driveway to catch the bus at 6:50 a.m. This is my favorite part of the day, once outside I feel fully awake and each morning I have the chance to notice the change in the seasons and observe the abundance of wildlife in this area. It seems as if spring has appeared overnight, on Monday we heard the raucous chorus of frog song and the first calls of the Killdeer. (charadrius vociferus) Every spring we are greeted with a pair of Killdeer who feign a broken wing as a means to protect their nest and young.

While mowing the lower field last spring my son found this nest, Killdeer lay their nest in grass and forage on foot, rarely taking flight.

 

An expanding blanket of wood violets (viola sororia) has carpeted my front yard, thriving under the walnut and apple trees. The modest violet has a long and interesting history, it was cultivated in ancient Greece and was the symbol of Athens. The Greek lyric poet Sappho wrote a poem about weaving garlands of violets in her lovers hair. In the early 1900’s a woman could indiscreetly signal her romantic intentions towards another woman by giving her a bouquet of purple violets as a message of “sapphic” aspirations. The flowers and stems of the violet can be used medicinally, in the past a poultice was used to treat headaches, colds, coughs, and dysentery were treated with an infusion made from the flowers. Surprisingly the edible violet contains more vitamin C than oranges and most vegetables.

 

I have not had one word from her

Frankly I wish I were dead
When she left, she wept
a great deal; she said to me, “This parting must be
endured, Sappho. I go unwillingly.”

I said, “Go, and be happy
but remember (you know
well) whom you leave shackled by love

“If you forget me, think
of our gifts to Aphrodite
and all the loveliness that we shared

“all the violet tiaras,
braided rosebuds, dill and
crocus twined around your young neck

“myrrh poured on your head
and on soft mats girls with
all that they most wished for beside them

“while no voices chanted
choruses without ours,
no woodlot bloomed in spring without song…”

–Translated by Mary Barnard

Violet’s Edible and Medicinal Uses

Practicum: Kiwi Vines

The hardy kiwi plants on the farm are tangled and overgrown because they were not properly trained their first year of planting. It is imperative to develop a single straight trunk at planting by choosing one strong shoot to grow upward as the trunk. The shoot should be loosely tied, and not allowed to wrap or twist itself around a support stake, all suckers and shoots must be removed. During the second growing season cordons are established by choosing two shoots and training them to grow in opposite direction along the main support wire, allow shoots to remain every foot and secure to outer trellis wire. It is important to stay on top of pruning task during the summer, all unwanted shoots and suckers should be removed to establish a good structure that will allow air flow and sunlight penetration. During the third year the leaders should be trained and tied off at an angle to the right of where they come off from the cordon to reduce sunlight competition. Do not allow the cordon to twist or wrap around the support wires, doing so will cut off the flow of sap. Once a good framework is established it is much easier to maintain and prune our kiwi vines.

The kiwi vines on Evergreens’ farm do not have a good structure, the vines have intertwined and there is a great amount of unchecked growth, especially in the upper canopy which make harvesting the fruit very difficult ant time consuming. The best course of action would be a heavy winter prune while the vine is still dormant, waiting too long will result in heavy sap flow that weaken the vine.

  • Do not allow male vines to get entangled with the female vines, male plants should be pruned after they bloom.
  • Female vines should be pruned while dormant, nearly 70 percent of older wood can be removed, second year wood will often still have last years fruit stems, which should be pruned.
  • Space replacement canes along the leaders about 12 inches.
  • Remove all dead, twisted, tangled, and crossing shoots.
  • The male vine should be pruned more lightly to allow for an abundance of flowers for spring pollination, after flowering the male plant should be pruned more heavily to maintain structure and order.

Conservation District and Bridge Grant Week 6

This week I met with Robin Buckingham from the Thurston Conservation District office, and bridge engineer Pat Powers to discuss options for replacing the failing culverts under my driveway. McLane creek runs through my property and each November we witness the return of salmon as they make their way to their spawning grounds. I applied for a grant to replace the culverts with a bridge, which will alleviate the flooding and provide an easier passage for the returning salmon during the fall and winter months. Robin Buckingham has done a wonderful job of coordinating with various agencies such as the Department of Fish and Wildlife to help move this project forward. I learned last month that my grant was approved!

McLane Creek spilling over the driveway.
My driveway was temporarily transformed into a waterfall!
Salmon were washed up and trapped in my lower field.

 

The portion off driveway where flooding occurs.

February 9th I accompanied Robin and Pat on a bridge tour to look at the options available for my project, the three bridges we visited were all within a five mile radius of my home.

Our first stop was Beatty Creek, Pat had worked on this project back in 2001, he was surprised to see the sign still standing and undamaged!
The concrete bridge at Beatty Creek.
Fish Pond Creek, this is a box culvert, which is a prefabricated concrete box which is set into the creek , Department and Fish and Wildlife had discouraged this design, it creates an unnatural stream bed. I had originally favored a box culvert because it would require raising the level of my driveway less than the other options. I changed my mind when I saw the box culvert in person, it does not fit with my riparian restoration project.
Wood bridge at Michelle Creek, Pat designed this project last year. I like the low profile, and the span, which allows the creek to flow more naturally, unlike the box culvert. Pat Powers on bridge with TCD technician Robin Buckingham.

I’m leaning towards the wood bridge, I like the design and use of natural materials, however it does have a shorter lifespan and we have concerns about slippery footing. Pat and Robin were very helpful in pointing out the pros and cons of each design, next week we plan to visit a steel bridge before I make a final decision. We all agree that whatever the choice it will be a vast improvement to the rusting pipes we currently have!

 

Internship: Winter repair and farm maintenance Week 5

This past week we worked on repairing the structural integrity of the green house located near the wash station at the Organic Farm. The strong winter winds have lifted and torqued the frame of the greenhouse and torn away the covering. Working with Jarod the farm aid we spent the first hour untangling the twisted rope and plastic in the cold rain. We decided the best approach would be securing the two main doorways with guy wires, similar to setting up a camping tent to create a base of support. The middle ribs of the frame are very loose and unevenly spaced, causing the cover to sag and collect rainwater, which puts weight on the frame causing it to collapse. Jarod used his ingenuity to secure and hold the middle ribs in place by tying nylon webbing at the top of the frame, using a plumbline to assure each rib was straight. This hands on work is translating well with my aim to learn practical skills to run and maintain my own farm.