View of Kampala from Kololo Hill with Lake Victoria in the distance
Once I finally arrived at the airport in Entebbe, I made my way through customs and collected my luggage. I then took a taxi to the house I am staying in for my first two weeks in Kampala. It was already dark when I landed but I still tried to take in as much as I could on to drive to Kampala.
As we progressed along the Kampala-Entebbe road, I was able to catch glimpses of the Friday night nightlife. Along the road there were many clubs, restaurants and many other locations playing music. As we drove, I would hear just a small clip of sound from each one. Coincidentally, the room I am staying in is right next to a club. However, three of the first songs I heard before I went to sleep (I was way too tired to try and go out after the trip) were ‘We Found Love’ by Rihanna, ‘Waka Waka (This Time For Africa)’ by Shakira and ‘Drunk in Love’ by Beyoncé.
One of my first observations on the next morning was how different the soundscape is here. In addition to the club next door the night was filled with the sound of barking dogs. The morning was filled with a variety of beautiful bird songs as well as the sound of roosters welcoming the new day with a cockadoodledoo.
The earth here is also distinct. It is a deep brick orange that contrasts beautifully with the luscious greens of the vegetation. Amongst the trees and other plants I have also caught glimpses of various birds including a vibrant flash of red and blue swooping briskly from one tree to another. I plan to find a book on the flora and fauna of Uganda so I can learn more about what I am seeing. There is also a balcony overlooking the beautiful garden of the house I am staying in. I hope to spend some of the sunny afternoons reading and birdwatching from there.
View from the balcony at Cathy’s house
Even though I have been here a few days I am still getting the feel for navigating the city. Part of the difficulty is that the streets aren’t organized on any easily discernible grid. This however is understandable as the city is built entirely on hills so the roads tend to curve up and around the hills. Kampala was originally built on 7 hills and was the center of the Baganda kingdom. It has now spread onto the surrounding hills as well. I am staying with a family friend, Cathy, on Kololo Hill. Fortunately, this is close to both Makerere University and the National Theater.
Building at Kisementi near the house where I am staying
On my second day in Kampala, Cathy introduced me to her friend Denis. Denis first showed me two shopping centers in walking distance from where I am staying just in case I need to pick up anything while I am here. From there we walked to the National Theater and took a look around. At the National Theater I was able to get a list of scheduled events which will definitely be convenient during my stay. From there we walked to a taxi stop and took a Matatu (minibus) to the Shell station in Bugolobi. From there we walked a short distance to Gattomatto and Jazz Ville. These are two venues that Denis said would be good for hearing live music while I am in Kampala. From there we took another Matatu to another venue called Zone 7 in a neighborhood called Nakawa. Next we went to Ntinda to go to the Ndere Center to see the Ndere Troupe perform.
Ndere Troupe
The Ndere Center was a wonderful experience. The NdeMolly, another of Cathy’s friends, met us there. She is a dancer and was able to explain the dances, music and musical instruments. The dancers performed dances from all over Uganda as well as a few dances from Rwanda and Burundi. One of the goals of the Ndere Troupe is to promote unity through the inclusion of dance and music styles from a diverse group of people.
Ndere Troupe performing a dance of the Banyarwanda
A passage from Waiting by Goretti Kyomuhendo highlights the diversity of cultures found throughout East Africa. The narrator of the story is from a district of Uganda called Hoima. The majority of the people in Hoima speak Nyoro which is the language of the Banyoro people. In this passage she is talking to one of her friends about the Tanzanian army that is passing through their town while attempting to drive Idi Amin’s army out of Uganda:
“But what about their own languages? I mean, the languages of their tribes?”
“They don’t speak them.”
“Then how can they tell what tribe someone belongs to?”
“I’m sure it must be difficult since everyone speaks the same language. Maybe they can tell by their names, you know, just like here; people from different regions have different names.” (82)
The language the Tanzanian soldiers speak is Kiswahili. Kiswahili is primarily a Bantu language from the east coast of Africa (Kenya, Tanzania and northern Mozambique). However due to the cultural integration with Arab trader it also contains a large Arabic influence. Kiswahili is considered a lingua franca for much of East Africa including Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique, Uganda, The Democratic Republic of Congo, Rwanda and Burundi. In Kampala a large percentage of the population speaks English as it is the official language of Uganda. However, walking around the city it is easy to hear a wide variety of languages including Luganda (Kampala was originally the center of the Baganda Kingdom) and Kiswahili.
Henry,
Kampala seems like a really beautiful place to be. The vegetation is very lush. I like birds too. Kampala birds must be so vibrant compared to the birds of the Northwest. I hope you get a chance to record the birds, roosters and even the evening dogs. Now you have me curious about how the soundscape is so different there. Maybe you don’t hear as much traffic there as you do here.
It’s funny that you heard American songs your first night there, like to welcome you. I hope your accommodations are comfortable. That must have been a long flight. Sounds like going through customs was easy. It sounds like Cathy is a good friend. It’s good that you can recognize the pattern of the grid that Kampala does have and the reason that it isn’t all squared. I suppose, as you make your way around the town in the next few weeks, you’ll get the feel of some pattern in the way the streets are laid out.
I am so amazed at the Ndere Troupe’s jumps during the performance in the photo. I think their goal of bringing unity through diverse groups of people is such a wonderful thing. We need more of this. It reminds me of the reason for Music For Change and also the music compilation by different countries that we watched in class earlier this year. There are a lot of drums (membranophones-had to look back on my notes). I’ll bet the ground was vibrating when they all played.
Waiting is a book I’d like to read. I always wonder how an outsider, like someone from the Tanzanian (although still from the same continent) army would be able to tell who their enemy is. I suppose this happens in many countries when there is conflict within the borders.
Keep safe and have fun,
Rai
This looks so amazing, it has inspired me to visit here and I have added Kampala to my to do list! The soundscape that you shared sounds very a bit rural, is there an urban spot here, and can you walk to most places? The Ndere dance performance looks important, were the dancers telling a story, is there a lot of traditional music in Kampala that was passed down from generation to generation? Are you able to identify the different languages spoken/learn any? I must complement you on your photos, they are well done and capture such a moment in time that can have so many expressions in it. Are you feeling at all out of place or are you in awe with the difference/similarities in cultures and music? Thanks for you post, and have fun exploring!
Kailey
So much culture! I think Africa, especially as I see it because my family has visited, sets a good example of music that embodies the culture. The dancing and music sounds like it would directly be expressive of the current state of things in Uganda. Like the exotic folk music composers have always searched for it would be interesting since the Traupe can included different styles of dance and music how the Uganda style could be immersed in Hip-Hop or another genre. Im seeing a direct relationship between wanting to feel freedom and what people do to express it: dance, sing, surf, draw, ect.. Because everyone is always searching to be free, from hate, debt, pain, death, anyone can relate with music that expresses the process. For me here in Los Angeles, I see it take form in surfing, composing, creating, and a person can be anyone they want here and express themselves anyway and be appreciated as because those around here relate to the grind. The same might not be for those in Uganda and your prospectus asks what the affect of colonialism has had on the music of Uganda, is there a reason the musicians are in Troupes? Are there independent musicians as well, experimental musicians? Maybe these questions will help guide you on your next week’s endeavors. Very interesting stuff, hope your enjoying yourself!