Can you attribute the taste differences to terroir?

In coffee, I want to be able to attribute a lot of the taste to terroir… but really all the facts are just against it. Sure, its important to have good soil, but location only matters when it comes to altitude. From what I’ve gathered from most coffee producers and roasters, terroir is one of the least important factors when it comes to taste. According to Sam and Oliver at Olympia Coffee Roasters, the two most important factors in flavor development are how the bean was removed from the fruit and the varietals. Processing is important because each of the three ways creates a vastly different taste; the processes are natural, honey, or washed. Varietals refers to the varietal of coffee plant the bean is coming from. Personally, when I drink coffee I either taste the coffee or I taste the roast. In the case of Batdorf and Bronson, I taste too much of the roast so it is harder to detect the actual varietal flavors. Whereas at Olympia Coffee Roasters, a light roast was used so the varietal and processing flavors sprung to life in my mouth. Now with what I have tasted and learned during this case study, I can’t say that I taste terroir in coffee, especially if you define terroir as the ‘taste of place’, but I can easily taste the differences in roasting, processing, and varietals… so that has to count for something, right?

Overall, I have just not been presented with enough examples and information to confirm that terroir is even detectable in coffee.

 

Written by Ashley.

Terroir Definition

Terroir has a very rough definition because of the fact that it is something more abstract in principle, and different individuals have their different backgrounds and terminologies that make them view terroir differently from one another. Through our studies in program first quarter, and our case study groups, we have come to understand the definition of terroir as the taste, and indistinguishable affect of a plant food in relation to the environment, topography, climate, and personal practices that surround it, it is everything that shaped the crop to be what it was. A balanced, and respectful relationship between man and nature, in order to fulfill manmade desires in the culinary. It differs from the definition of general agriculture becausethe definition of terroir, includes taste, culture, and the result of the specific journey of the plant commodity through its use, and enjoyment by man. In essence, terroir is a more advanced, higher consciousness way to look at agriculture, and all things related, as well as how we enjoy and use the various products that are yielded by these practices.

 

 

Written by Nick

Business of Coffee: Olympia

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Downtown Olympia has a unique melting pot charm when it comes to coffee shops and what each shop offers to the community that compliments the ideas of bringing every person together to enjoy a beloved coffee. During the field study, We got a great deal of information from the well known local roasters and their coffee shops, Olympia Coffee Roasters and Batdorf & Bronson; who bring their knowledge and take on how to make a perfect cup while providing a sophisticated yet inviting environment that is great for small business get togethers, students that need to study or people who just wanting to relax after a long day.  Olympia Coffee Roasters (OCR) specialize in light to medium roasts that bring out the floral and fruity flavors while Batdorf & Bronson(B&B) focused on medium to dark roasts that presented wonderful chocolate, caramel and tobacco notes.  Where both roasters get their main coffee beans from are Ethiopia, Central and South America and involved in direct fair trade. One of the differences between Olympia Coffee Roasters and Batdorf & Bronson when it comes to importing/exporting is OCR has it shipped directly and pays 300% market value  while B&B buys the coffee at fair trade price and pays people to ship it. Both companies bring enthusiasm to teach people where their coffee comes, how it is prepared and where their business ethics are.

During our field study, we intended to question the distributional transparency of both establishments. Our first trip to Olympia Coffee Roasters gave us an ethical experience, with robust and exotic undertones. While both experiences were valuable to the pallet, our sense of taste and origin, it seemed apparent that the business models of both Olympia Coffee Roasters and Batdorf and Bronson may both be more ethical than your average starbucks, but when compared to one another however they are not quite the same. OCR described a system that included a direct transaction with the farmer for higher wages per pound than BB, with a professional team of flat rate wage, exporters and importers putting more money in the hands of the farmers. BB’s chain of supply seemed more expanded with the coffee passing through multiple hands that all had a stake in flipping that coffee and ringing more value out of it. Hopefully conditions will improve across the board with a model that is more economically viable for those that produce this commodity. Free trade is a term commonly used, but much less commonly adhered too, creating a trail of money that is somewhat based on hypocrisy.

Written by Tasha,

completed by Nick

Picture Image: http://7-themes.com/6801310-lovely-coffee-cup-wallpaper.html

 

Favorite Coffee Taste

At Olympia Coffee Roasters we got to experience a full cupping experience; complete with all the types of coffee that they offered at their establishment. The cupping process adheres to strict guidelines: coarse ground coffee, use of a French press, 200 degree Fahrenheit water, skim the foam off, and let cool. Now out of all the various coffees we tried, my personal favorites were the two Heirloom Ethiopia coffees. The first was the Banko Natural, which had notes of strawberry, blueberry, and chocolate. The second was the Adame Garbota, with notes of lemon peel, fruity dark chocolate, and apricot jam. Both of the Ethiopia coffees were sweet… which makes sense why I preferred their complexity over some of the more astringent and bitter coffees, since I have such a sweet tooth! The moment I slurped these two coffees into my mouth, I knew that I loved coffee. Sure, I usually turn my nose up at Starbucks or any other type of plain coffee… but these beans were different. Ethiopia is said to have been the birthplace of all coffees, and I can see why it is such a big part of their culture. The fruity, sweet wonderfulness of their coffee fills your mouth and puts an instant smile on your face. Simply perfect.

Written by Ashley.

Four Favorite Coffee Cafes

Business Name Business Address Resourceful People Aspects of Terroir
 Obsidian  414 4th Ave E, Olympia WA  n/a They are currently using espresso from a local roaster in Tacoma WA, called Bluebeard. They specialize in single origin coffees. They embrace very brightly flavored light to medium roasts.
 Olympia Coffee Roasters  108 cherry St NE Olympia, WA  Oliver  Place specific coffees & window that allows customers to look into the cupping room.
 Burial Grounds  406 Washington St SE Olympia, WA  n/a The source of burial grounds coffee does not seem to be a priority for the company. They do not focus on single origin but they definitely have uniquely developed second wave coffee drinks and provide a great ambiance.
 Reykjavik Roasters  Karastigur (corner of Frakkastigur), Reykjavik, Iceland  Torfi Por Torfason  Variety of place specific coffee beans. Roaster is in the front of the coffee shop and allows for customer interaction. Coffee beans are also in the front of the shop with location printed on the burlap bag.

Three Favorite Coffee Site Insights

Site Visit: Insight:
Batdorf & Bronson  Sometimes they will age their coffee a bit if it tastes too “squirrel-y”. Generally though, they only roast coffee that they have already sold.
Olympia Coffee Roasters  They do a light roast on all their cuppings, so you taste the coffee and not the roast.
Olympia Coffee Roasters  Do 3 different checks on the coffee to make sure the quality is the same and up to standard throughout the whole buying process.

-Ashley

Integrative Question- Coffee Embracing Permaculture more specifically “Direct Trade” practices

 

 

Permaculture integrates three priorities: care for the Earth, care for people, and fair share.  Once a product becomes a commodity it is subjected to all capitalistic rule and  controversy. There are many attempts these days to start deconstructing the unethical framework that revolves around the coffee  industry including attempts made by Olympia Coffee Roasters. In their mission statement OCR claims to be a “quality of life” roaster and retailer. One of the biggest impacts they make in terms of embracing their mission is through their direct trade process. Now, considering that coffee is an import and commodity, and that this won’t change anytime soon, applying direct trade practice is the first step to take in terms of fair share practices and caring for the people. In an article entitled “Coffee with a Conscience” direct trade “seeks to provide fair prices for small farmers and encourages them to sustainable, ecologically responsible practices.” Efforts are being made with big corporations like IKEA and Mcdonalds to shift to more sustainable coffee sourcing but the standards can often be skewed when corporations like these intend to simply build their brand reputation.

If coffee was produced and consumed in a complete permaculture realm, ideally it wouldn’t be consumed far from where it was grown. Julianna Fox, author of sustainable revolution believes “A sacred way of life connects us to the people and places around us. That means that a sacred economy must be in large part a local economy, in which we have multidimensional, personal relationships with the land and people who meet our needs, and whose needs are met in turn.” With our complex coffee supply chain and existing history in commodity markets, as consumers we are largely disconnected from our coffee suppliers. So the bigger question is do we have that multidimensional, personal relationship with land and people who provided us with the beans used to make our morning cup of joe?

 

Written by Valerie, Ashley

 

 

 

5th Perspective – A Brief History of Instant Coffee

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Soldiers enjoying some instant coffee

Amongst third wave coffee consumers and retailers instant coffee has a negative stigma attached to it. It is often thought to be poor quality and a quick fix for our rushed mornings and afternoon crashes. When I think of instant coffee I tend to think of the American industrial era and the introduction of highly processed foods, but instant coffee dates much further back than that. Instant coffee was a product of the civil war. It was a way to fuel troops efficiently without using large amounts of brewing equipment and it was a product with a long shelf life. There were larger advancements made with instant coffee during the 1930’s involving  Nestle (sound familiar?). Nestle technicians worked with Brazilian coffee officials, who had vast quantities of coffee stock piles that needed to be utilized. Nestle had developed a a spray drying technology that they were using to powder milk and this same technique was used to powder coffee beans. During WWII instant coffee was directed more heavily towards troops and less toward a consumer’s market, but post war production and consumption of the product increased rapidly. Instant coffee was an expanding market. In the 1950’s the U.S. was the largest consuming market for instant coffee. Some of the larger instant coffee manufacturers include Nestle, Borden, and General Mills (Maxwell House). These three players were also competitively buying shares for the rapidly growing  and capital intensive market.

image: thevintagenews.com

Written by Valerie. Edited by Ashley.

Business Perspective – Marketing Coffee

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From big coffee corporations to small time local favorite coffee shops, the way that each business keeps their doors open is because of how well they do at marketing to consumers and making them believe they have the greatest product that money can buy.  A traditional way that companies spread their product is by word-of-mouth from dedicated patrons, because who can people trust more then someone they personally know and not feel as though they are being bamboozled.  A way many companies market their coffee is through television, newspaper, and web advertisement like Folgers famous trademark slogan “The best part of waking up, is Folgers in your cup” where it shows people getting ready for their day and enjoying a cup of coffee before it all starts. A companies design for a package such as Starbucks recognizable logo. The quality of the product, what origin is it, or what it comes down to a great deal of the time for the consumer: how much am I going to have to pay and is it worth it; meaning does a customer want to pay a cheap price and get okay coffee in bulk or spend extra on a small bag but get amazing coffee.

picture image: http://www.faithfoodhealth.com/2014/12/present-christmas/