On my last night in Scotland I decided I have to have an authentic Scottish meal before I head to Paris. So naturally I went to the local whisky bar (called the Whisky Bar) and ordered a plate of haggis and a glass of 12 year Cragganmore Scottish whisky. The haggis was really good despite what it is made from. And the whisky was wonderful as always. I really like this pub. It’s very authentic and has live traditional music every night although I wasn’t able to hear it because it doesn’t start till after 9 and I decided to go see more jazz at the Jazz Bar down the street.
This week I’ve been reading “Gypsy Jazz” by Michael Darengi. What a well written book! It is getting me so excited to be in Paris. Not only is it exactly what I wanted for studying Gypsy Jazz and the culture behind it but It talks a lot about places in paris where the music came from so I know exactly where to go to see the music when I am there and the places to go where Django Reinhardt grew up and played. Darengi talks about his trip to Paris to discover all he could about Django and his culture. So he walks you through his whole trip and the history behind each place he went. A great look into old world Paris. It has been really great to read this back to back with “Making Jazz French”. So many connections between the two that are creating a strong base for my studies in Paris.
On the first page of Gypsy Jazz Darengi gives a wonderful description of this style of jazz.
This jazz is joy made song. Alive and iridescent, it swings with effortless intensity, transcending the everyday world. Yet it’s also infused with bittersweet spirit, nostalgic, melancholic, something nameless and impossible to articulate in anything but music. Within the melodies and strophes of improvisations resound an emblem of people. An emblem, and a history. Here is the legend of the Romani in music, leading back a millennium, stretching across continents. These melodies are fully modern, yet ancient and ageless (pg. 7).
Darengi had me hooked from page one, describing everything I felt but didn’t understand in this beautiful music. And then he goes deep into the culture behind it, giving the reader a greater insight as to why gypsy jazz sounds the way it does and makes you fall in love with it even more. I am so looking forward to visiting the outskirts of Paris to find where this music originated. To be able to listen to gypsy jazz in the same cafes and dance halls where it was born. What an incredible experience!
I flew into Pais this afternoon from Edinburgh and wow….. It is so good to be here but I am so stressed out! I totally underestimated my ability to speak French! Buying a loaf of bread was a whole crazy and difficult experience in itself and now I get to spend three weeks here. I know I will adapt but for right now I will have to trudge through town doing my best to break down this barrier of language in front of me. Not that the language barrier overshadows the awesomeness of Paris of course!
My suitemate here at the are BnB is great! I think he is from Spain, but I’m non sure. I haven’t asked yet but Spanish is definitely his first language. He greeted me at the door and showed me around this tinny apartment, then told me a bit about the area. Let me know where the nearest grocarie store, cafe, and bar were and got me all settled in. I am looking forward to getting to now more locals. The French I have met around town seem to be pretty cold but I think that’s just because I come off immediately as a stupid American. But I hope to change that as soon I get comfortable here. I know they aren’t all cold people because I met some really wonderful French people in Scotland. Very willing to make great conversation and share with me their time.
While I was in Scotland I had the opportunity to go on possibly the cooled hike I’ve ever been on! It was on Ben Nevis, the tallest peak in the UK. I saw the most amazing views and met some great people.
I cant seem to get any photos to upload but I’ll figure out what is going on soon hopefully. But you can see a bunch of them on Flicker.
Until next week!
April 28, 2015 at 5:23 pm
Aaron,
I am totally impressed by your bravery – speaking of the haggis, of course! But enough of Scotland, not it’s time for Paris!!!! Your post has me very excited to learn more about Gypsy jazz. It sounds like you have found a fabulous book to walk you through its history – thank you for the excerpt you shared. Just to be sure you are aware – Bodhi is working on gypsy music & dance in Seville so you might want to keep a particular look out for her posts. As you know, Tristan is also in Paris and has had some wonderful posts about his experiences that might also be helpful for you.
I appreciated your wonderful reminder of the ways in which travel can keep us humble. The language issue can certainly get one’s attention but it sounds like you are taking it all in good stride and will quickly gain a more solid footing.
Thank you for your excellent post. Looking forward to learning about your continuing adventure!!
April 29, 2015 at 2:01 am
As Andrea has pointed out, I’m here in Paris as well and would love to see a friendly face! You can contact me through text (my number is 4257808569) or through email (at tlapoint122@yahoo.com). I would also love to discuss the places you have learned about regarding the development of Jazz because, as I highlighted in my most recent post, I’m unable to access Making Jazz French until I get back to the states, but I would still really like to see some Jazz while I am here and learn more about the culture of it in Paris because I know precious little about it. I actually stumbled upon a small Jazz trio, comprised of two guitarists and a violinist, which I was able to get a recording of and will be posting to my blog shortly, but that’s the extent of my experience of Jazz here in Paris. I would also love to exchange tips on warming up to the people of this city because I’ve had mixed experiences as well and I’m not exactly sure if it’s because I did something rude to provoke those bad experiences that I wasn’t aware of, or if they seemed, as you put it, cold because I don’t understand every cultural nuance here yet. Either way it would be great to talk over a café or pot de vin and if you’re interested in a tour of Notre Dame and a bit of the Latin Quarter I would most certainly oblige. 🙂