Self-Eval

“It doesn’t really have anything to do with my education.”

That is what I usually told people who asked why I was going to walk El Camino de Santiago for college credit. I was going to go and see some new sights and eat some new food and smell some new smells. I wasn’t going to really learn anything.  Now, at the End of the World, I realized that I have loved and lost, faced parts of myself that I have fled for years, and acknowledge aspects of myself that I never thought existed.

I’ve spent a lot of my life living inside my head. My general lack of self-confidence kept me from befriending people I admired and taking chances that could have become stories for my grandchildren. Buying a plane ticket to Spain for three months was the first in a series of decisions that made me very uncomfortable. One click meant a commitment to being uncomfortable. I didn’t speak Spanish, know how to use the subway, and I had never left the United States.

I walked in solitude, I hitchhiked to Portugal, and I spent the weekend in a beachhouse with a thirty three year old woman. If I hadn’t just said “yes”, I never would have realized that I am comfortable in my own company, learned proper hitching etiquite, or discovered so many uses for olive-oil.

Most days of my Way have been so dense with living that the day before is quickly forgotten. Most nights have been filled with delicious dinners, cozy social drinking, and dreams so vivid that they are hardly distinguishable from reality. I have lost myself in the wilderness, and smiled when I realized that I had absolutely no clue where I was heading.

I pushed myself out of my comfort bubble, and I had the greatest adventure of my life.

Independent Project

“…I was encouraged to find that many people now of college age—those who belong to the first generation to grow up in a largely de-natured environment—have tasted just enough nature to intuitively understand what they have missed. This yearning is a source of power. These young people resist the rapid slide from the real to the virtual, from the mountains to the Matrix. They do not intend to be the last children in the woods.” (Louv 3)

I carried Richard Louv’s words in my pack from one side of Spain to the other. It was hard not to feel like I was one of these children he used to preface his work The Last Child in the Woods. I spent my summers skipping smooth stones across olive-colored rivers, bushwacking my way through blackberry thickets, and ducking all-too-courageously into hopefully-deserted bear caves. I had the taste as a child, of how one can loose a sense of time and identity in the forest, in the whadow of a mountain, or waist deep in a flow of mountainmelt. I undertook my walk without the company of my classmates, but I seldom felt lonely. I never forgot that there was life all around.

Every city that I arrived in, Madrid, Burgos, Pamplona, Bilbao, Santiago de Compostela, was in stark contrast from the mountain paths that I became very comfortable on. Upon entering these dense metropolitain areas, I was unsettled. There were the crouds of people, on their phones, looking into their palms. The sounds of traffic flowing along arterial highways drown out the birds that sung the anthem of my walking. When I passed by children at reccess, they were very blaitantly caged, or “containerized”, as University of Maryland professor Jane Clark puts it. I sat with a few friends at a beach in Finisterra, and children had been let out for reccess on a school up on the hillside. Many of the children reached through the bars of the fence surrounding their concrete play-area, waving down at my group and I, skipping stones out into the calm cape.

So why were those children so strictly contained to a concrete jungle when a beautiful beach lay just down the hill? The plain truth is that “countless communities have virtually outlawed unstructured outdoor nature play, often because of the threat of lawsuits, but also because of a growing obsession with order” (Louv 27). Out of petty fear of scraped knees and seaside-kidnappers, those kiddos are on a daily basis deprived of the adventure and exploration that is ceasslessly available on a sandy beach. My friends and I spent hours stacking rocks (physics), playing frisbee (motor control), and meeting foreigners on the sand (social skills). Those children spent their reccess clinging to a metal fence, staring down the hillside at us.

“[W]e can definitely say that the best predictor of preschool children’s physical activity is simply being outdoors…and that an indoor, sedentary childhood is linked to mental-health problems” (Louv 31).

As modern societies advance further down a dominantly digital pathway, mental and social maladies become ever-more prevalent among our youth. I rarely saw children in the small mountain pueblos through which I passed daily, and in the cities, I had several run ins with angsty and sometimes threatening young people. A friend and I once came upon a gang of teenagers throwing stones into windows several stories above. They shouted indecipherably at an old woman making her way home. She was so frightened by their rambunctious behavior that she asked us to walk her to her door. While their actions cannot directly be attributed to living in a city and deprived of nature, they did live in the projects of Madrid, and not the valleys of Cantabria.

Luckily, within the problem lies the solution. Alienation from the natural world breeds problems, but immersion can be incredibly nurturing and healing. I began my walk to Santiago de Compostela having just shakily separated with my significant other. In the city of Burgos, I struggled to clear my head. After leaving the city, I was much more easily able to cope. My thoughts and feelings were more clear in the mountains and beside the ocean. In a matter of days I was “over it”. There is something about nature that calms the mind. Thoughts and feelings come and go like clouds. The pace of the mind is slowed. During my walk I learned to trust myself, in a time when many people my age don’t have the confidence to order a pizza over the phone.

The closer we grow to the intangible companion of technology, the further we stray from our home. Louv’s “nature deficit disorder” becomes an ever growing problem, and our school systems do little to bridge the gap. The is getting outside. Instead of watching on a screen, get out and see it for yourself. The natural aspects of our world are quickly being extracted and used up, and our humanity goes with it.

Faculty Evaluation

I have never found myself so incredibly frustrated with an academic instructor. So many times I found myself glaring at his shiny forehead, thinking “Damnit, why wont you just tell us what you want?!” Bill Arney is without doubt generously qualified for his position. To the classroom he brings a wealth of knowledge that is oftentimes hard to categorize as first person experience or something read from a book. He is resourceful in his allegories, or at least for those who have managed to follow his train of thought that deep into a monologue.

My frustration in class and while writing comes from the standards that Bill holds for his students. He pushes us to think deeper, to adapt to foreign perspectives as if they were our own, and to challenge our own thinking. Our seminars were often quiet, but only because so few of us felt confident speaking on the level of intangibility that was expected of us. When conversation arose, it could very likely take flight, and I think that each and every student could leave each class feeling enlightened and slightly belittled, for better or worse. Learning is no joke to Bill. He expects of his students the same efforts in thought as the subjects of our studies.

I suppose that my one gripe with Bill would be that I received less personal attention to my work than I might have liked. Spoiled millennial? Maybe. Bill seems to expect a high level of devotion and quality of our writing, and while I feel my writing has vastly improved, I think that it could have more so, had Bill provided more specific critiques. Likely I expect too much. After all, I am one of nearly twenty students who write for Bill for each assignment, I am thankful for his feedback in the safe of such a workload.

All in all, it has been a great pleasure working and learning under Bill. I would enthusiastically pursue his course offerings in the future, in spite of the guaranteed challenge that they would present.

Ethan Rogol served as our Spanish Language instructor for this quarter only. Ethan was incredibly enthusiastic, bright, and patient with his instruction. We all enjoyed his integration of music into our classes, and how ready he was to cater to varying experience levels. His approach to learning language is tradition with more practical touches, which make for a classroom full of waving hands trying to pantomime a haircut to less fluent piers. I enjoyed his class, and feel as though I leave for Spain much more capable of finding a place to rest my tired bones at the end of a long day walking.

In the Spring, I was lucky to interact with Bill Arney in a fashion that few students ever do with their instructors. I met with Bill several times along our walk through Spain. We usually discussed my writing, and I found it much easier to gain concrete advice and criticism in this environment. It was refreshing to be around Bill in a more casual setting. When I faced a miniature existential crisis of sorts, I forced myself to talk to Bill, and his advice, while a bit sryptic, was helpful. Above all else I am so very grateful for this opportunity that he has created for myself and the other students. Walking to Santiago de Compostela has been the best decision I have ever made, and It certainly wouldnt have been the same without Bill Arney.

Academic Statement

For me, The Evergreen State College was going to be a magical transmutation machine. I would go in with undirected passion and a can-do attitude, and come out with a clear set of goals, connections to get me there, and probably a head of dreadlocks. At the end of my first year taking classes in Olympia, I think that the college has done its job, transmutation complete.

I came to Evergreen wanting to become an educator, but education is a broad term. In the last nine months, I have worked in a kindergarten class at a local elementary school. I have led friends on adventures into the Evergreen forest and into the surrounding mountains. Each day has left me more sure of my path.

Spring quarter, I walked across Spain, from Irun to Finisterra, a distance of over 900 kilometers. Almost every night I slept in Albergues run by volunteers, some former pilgrims themselves. One evening I arrived in a tiny beach town not long before dark. I had walked two stages that day, passing through several major cities and places to stay. When I reached the last albergue for another four hours walk, a sign posted clearly on the door read “FULL” in three different languages. In spite of their full house, the pair of hospitaleros welcomed me. They made space for an extra bed, made space around the table for a home-cooked meal, and made room in their busy schedules to show us pilgrims a beautiful sunset, and talk with me for hours about their work. I left the next morning with two warm hugs, an e-mail address, and an offer to be a hospitalero myself in the coming years.

I learned two very important things on my walk; that anyone can warm the hearts and make a difference in the lives of complete strangers, and that education and learning more often occurs out in this great big world than it does in a mediated classroom. El Camino de Santiago has not only changed my direction, but also clarified my goals. I will be leaving Evergreen, to pursue a degree in Outdoor Education and Therapy at Western Washington University. There I can combine my passion for the outdoors with giving to others. I also plan on taking up those two hospitaleros on their offer, so that I may give something back to the Way that gave so much to me.

Even if my path is not through the Red Square for the next three years, I found it there. I would not be here, in Europe, living through the most adventurous time of my life, had it not been for the Evergreen State College, but I no longer need to “figure it out”. Transmutation complete.

Lackluster Arrival

Today I finished what turned out to be a thousand kilometer pilgrimage, across the Iberian peninsula, over a period of two months, and felt almost nothing.

I have had a lot of time, walking over mountains, through forests of oak and eucalyptus, and ancient cities, to picture the completion of my pilgrimage. This morning I wrote a blog post about the anticipation of my arrival, and reading it again, I sound delusional.

The walk to the End of the World was saturated with people, a few of them pilgrims. The parking lot was at its capacity of tour busses, and Danish teenagers flowed out and toward the cliffside like a river. I dreampt of a cool ocean spray in the air, but instead the thick musk of intercontinental shit wafted out of the public bathhouse. There was no beach in which to plunge myself to the ocean, but there were several bustling kiosks selling the same blue-and-yellow knick-knacks that infested every city like leprosy.

I clambered down the cliffside, seeking solitude from the clicking of cameras and the giggling of teenagers. I found a flat-ish boulder hanging over the ocean, sat down, and thought. I waited for tears to come, to be overehelmed by my journey’s end. There were no tears. I felt no different than I had the weeks before. An hour passed, and I scrambled back up to join the other tourists. I joined them in exhaling an enthusiastic “Wooooooowww”, and then turned my back to the End of the World, and descended back to Finisterra.

I thought of Forrest Gump and his three years of running across the North American continent. “When I got to another ocean, I figured, since I’d gone this far, I might as well just turn back, keep right on goin’.”

When I got to the ocean, I realized, or remembered, that it was never about getting to Santiago de Compostela, or Finisterra. It was about going somewhere. When I tell my family and eventually my children about el Camino, the stories won’t be about the day I finished. They will be about the people that I fell in love with along the way, the things that I saw and touched and felt.

Its easy to arrive somewhere, but it is a whole hell of a lot harder to go somewhere.

The Ease of Hitchhiking

“I think it’s time to look for a bus.”

I drop the one-too-many-times-folded cardboard sign to my side. It reads “PORTO” in thickly-penciled letters.

The sun in Portugal was vicious, unrelenting in the cloudless sky. After walking the last twenty kilometers into Santiago, and then proceeding to hitchhike south into Portugal, my skin had been baked like tanned leather.
We were filthy. Dirt from the construction site we stood alongside caked with sweat on our faces. Our hair was ratty and matted; I hid mine beneath a grey cap I had acquired somewhere near Pondevedra. We stunk of several kinds of smoke, gasoline, and pilgrim funk. Evening commuters mostly looked scornfully at our motley crew or pretended not to notice us entirely. No one was going to give us a ride.

When Agnieszka and Hannah decided that we would hitchhike to Portugal, I was reluctant but enthused. This small town boy had never had a problem getting from A to B, and had certainly never needed to hitch. I imagined scoring a snappy pickup from a smiley, cookiecutter family in their caravan, on their way to the same sandy beach. They would have been very happy to help pilgrims in need. They would feed us and offer us sweating beers in the pounding sun. We would graciously accept and ride the rainbow all the way to Porto, laughing and singing ‘Kumbaya’. Wrong.

We had walked more than an hour to the outer rim of Santiago de Compostela before we caught our first ride. Miguel and his travel companion had made a hobby of photographing pilgrims. He enthusiastically offered to take us a little down the line, but only if we struck a few candid-looking poses before his 35mm. We graciously accepted, pretending to stride woefully down the sidewalk, and then packing into the back of his van. We sped south, and I took the time to become a little too familiar with Betty, the monsterous hound who had previously ocuppied the whole back row, but now forced into my lap. We became bonded very quickly, but eventually decided that there was no future for our love. She was a dog, and I am too much of a rambler to be tied down.

Miguel left us on a rocky turnoff on the edge of a nameless pueblo with a warm hug (and kisses for the girls) and his email, so that we could get copies of his pics. In spite of our short love affair, Betty the hound was happy to see me go, so that she could reclaim her row of hairy seats. The trio sped off across a set of traintracks, and again we were stranded.

On the street shoulder, we made a quick picnic, and the girls claimed the cardboard signs. We figured that their good looks and cheerful dispositions would be more attractive to strangers, and that my gruff appearance made me look as though I made a career of piggybacking transportation. So I sat quietly at the shady base of an old oak tree, watching car after car after car fly by. Agnieszka and Hannah would hold each other close and jump waving when an empty van or R.V. rolled around the bend, and then droop, a little lower each time, as the vehicles flew by.

The girls had nearly used up their enthusiasm by the time a beat up compact car veered onto the roadside behind us. We haggled with the two younger men about our destination, threw our bags in the trunk, and shot back onto the road. The passenger, bearded and with heavy gauges stretching his ears, did his best to make conversation in meager English, but eventually gives up and begins rolling a cigarette.

“You smoke joints?” He asks without looking away from his work. He spoke this phrase quite fluently.

“Yes.” Aga quickly replies, seemingly out of reflex.

The driver paid little attention to the white lines along the slithering mountain road. He may have been a rally driver in a past life. His phone rang, and he fished for his cell, and then answered.  I looked to my right, and Aga was staring spacily at me, her eyes wide and unyielding. “Your face is sparkling…” she says, pulling a shiny golden boa from the window behind me and wrapping it around my neck.

As Aga continued to oogle my sparkling complexion, the driver bent the car into a roundabout. The three of us were sandwiched together as he pounded the throttle, cackling madly like a seagull. At this point, I thought to myself:
‘Sometimes people die hitchhiking…no….not you…”

We negotiated hurriedly to be dropped off at the nearest bus stop. The car sped off, throwing rocks down the road behind us. Hannah, Aga and myself stagger to the steps of the bus stop. We collapse, dry mouthed, hungry, and happy to be alive.

We took turns sneaking into the bus station to use the bathroom, and had a quick snack on the steps. As we rested, a pair of taxis took turns shuttling away folks who arrived at the station. Each time they returned, they eyed us.
“We know you want a ride…” They said without words.
 No, we were NOT going to take a taxi. Thats too safe. Apparently we prefered to roll the dice.

Again we found ourselves poised on the roadside. This time we were lucky enough to be in the shade of a decaying building. Its windows were boarded, leaving the sills available to be used as seats for tired hitchhikers. We took turns holding the signs this time. Our last adventure had left the girls drooping a bit, and myself more so. After another hour, José came to something I will reluctantly call our “rescue”.

He stopped his white panel van in the middle of the road in front of us. Traffic immediately began to pile up as we exchanged the now familiar netogiations.
“Porto? No? Where? WHERE?”
*Insert nervous glances at one another*
“Okay sure!”

I try the sliding side door. The handle moves but the door doesn’t so much as flinch. José reaches back and tries from the inside. Nothing. Traffic now extends around the corner, and our savior climbs into the back of the van and begins kicking the door. The whole van is now shaking as he pounds hopelessly over and over. I quickly realize that the side of the van is caved in and scraped over with caution-yellow paint, as if José had run into something.

I look back to Aga and Hannah who are equally enthralled and completely speachless. I hope that one of them will finally wave our savior off and wait for the next ride. Neither of them do anything.

José now leaps out of the van and rounds to the back as horns begin blaring. He swings open the rear doors, revealing a nest of clutter, and motions for us to climb in and over the back seats.

“Dont you want to sit in the front?” Agnieszka asks, grabbing my arm as I toss my back into the van.

“No, that’s fine! You can have it.” I reply all too quickly, my mind still hazy from our previous generous hosts.

So the pilgrims climb into the back of the dirty demolition van with the greasy-haired Samaritan.

As we pull off, I realize my mistake. Aga sits quietly in the front, next to José. She stares out the passenger window, and José stares at her, only taking safety glances back at the road. He stares her up and down, chewing his lip.

I wonder if this guy is actually a psycho. We crawled into his van, he got us.

On the floor I spot a wrench I could use to disbatch José of his consciousness should he make an unsavory move. The same wrench would work fine for making an exit in the window of the conviently jammed door. If GreaseBall tried something, I was ready.

Of course, I was wrong. He drove us for almost an hour without incident, far down the line, and left us safely at an underpass. We all released a stale breath as the van pulled away.

What were we doing? How in the hell had I let myself wind up  just across the Portuguese boarder, in fading daylight, with no sense of direction or guarentee of a bed come sundown.

Again we plopped down on the side of the south-bearing highway ramp. Construction had torn most of the road up, creating a bottleneck for departing traffic. I finished the last of my water. My phone was almost dead.

The sun in Portugal was vicious, unrelenting in the cloudless sky. After walking the last twenty kilometers into Santiago, and then proceeding to hitchhike south into Portugal, my skin had been baked like tanned leather.
We were filthy. Dirt from the construction site we stood alongside caked with sweat on our faces. Our hair was ratty and matted; I hid mine beneath a grey cap I had acquired somewhere near Pondevedra. We stunk of several kinds of smoke, gasoline, and pilgrim funk. Evening commuters mostly looked scornfully at our motley crew or pretended not to notice us entirely. No one was going to give us a ride.

“I think its time to look for a bus.”

I picked up my sign, slung my backpack over my shoulder, and turned my back to the traffic. I had no idea where to catch a bus in this town, but there were no other options. The girls had begun to collect their things as a shiny black car pulled up next to us in the traffic. The driver rolled down the passenger window, and crisp, conditioned air poured out. The driver, a beautiful woman with floeing black curls smiled out at my companions and I.

“You are going to Braga? Hop in.” She said in near-perfect English.

Going to Church

When the sun purges through a heavy veil of clouds, the light catches water vapor, creating a golden stream of light training from the heavens. When I was just a nugget, I used to thunk that these were the slides that angels slid down to recieve passing souls. There are many angels on their way to Finisterre this morning.

The salty musk of the ocean fills my every breath. The water is still, rippling ever so softly like cyan stained glass. Little pastel colored boats sit moored in the cape, still, sleeping.

A few hours away is Finisterre, the End of the World. I woke this morning with a stomach too unsettled to handke breakfast. I always feel like this in the morning before I fly or travel, or go to a job interview, or start a new class.

My face burns if I dwell too much on my journey, and the closeness of its end. I dont feel ready to give up those tears, so I straighten my posture, sinch my pack to my back, and walk faster.

In Santiago, Aiden Taylor invited me to attend mass with him. Indid my best to kindly decline. I did not feel god in that cathedral. It was cold, and echoed the sounds of pilgrims jabbering and struggling with camera-phones.
The crashing of the waves are my mass. The shock of icy ocean water is my baptism. The spires of seawashed rock are the spires of my cathedral. When I arrive, I will pray, and throw my bare form into the ocean.

Today, I am going to church.

A Solitary Walk

Today, like most days, I walked alone.

My path takes many forms. Sometimes I follow a great asphalt snake, winding horizontally along one hillside or another. Its blackness is intensified by the cool spring rain that falls sometimes only for a moment, or a whole afternoon. The weather is indecisive. Periodically the sun will appear, forcing me to remove a layer or two, only to dissappear once I have brandished my pack once again.

Often, the Way leaves the paved path, trading the scent of damp tar for clay and sandy loam. Here my feet awaken, each step finding a new rock, a pleasntly soft texture underfoot, or the snapping of a twig unnoticed.

I round a wooded corner, and see a pilgrim ahead. Their backpack is bright orange, a color that pulls my eyes from the company of my path. It reads ‘Deuter’ across the back.
“They must be German.” I think, or maybe they just bought a German backpack from REI like I did. The pilgrim tick-tick-ticks along the Way, matching each footfall with a tungsten trekking-pole tip. I push up the a hill behind them, closing distance with each step. “Hola.”
“Hola.”
I pass the pilgrim with a smile and a nod.
“Buen Camino.”
“Buen Camino.”

Another hill or two and I have evaded the tick-tick-ticking of the pilgrim.

Utilitarian eucalyptus stands, planted in row after row, give way to  a more lush forest. The first ferns have begun to emerge from the humus, and they occupy the space between creaking white oak and cypress trees. The way is lined here by ageless stone walls. Their facade is oftentimes concealed by a veil of thick moss, which glistens and drips with drizzle. When I am lucky, a shy breeze will disturb the treetops, glittering the Way in cherry blossom or tiny white petals.

A robin leaves it’s roost and hops through a puddle in front of me. I slow my pace, to allow ample time for my friend to bathe himself.
“Hello bird.”
“Tweet.”

Back on the asphalt again, the hillside is bald. To my left, a row of wind turbines swing their great arms without sound. To my right, wind-chimes…..no…..cowbells tink and dink, but their owners are out of sight.

A frenchman gave me a nectarine the night before. He had bought two too many. I bite into it, and the juice runs into my beard and down my chin. It is brilliantly sweet, and perfectly ripe. Again the trail slinks into the forest. I follow, my fingers sticky, smiling.

Galician Wolves

According to my ‘Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Northern Camino’, many Galician farmers “enjoy telling you, without the slightest tone of irony or sarcasm, that ‘no hay vacas en Galicia'”. While there may not be any cows in Galicia, there are wolves.

“Ive never seen a gray German Shepherd…” Ida said in mystic tone, leaning out of her chair to peer into the hillside.
“I saw something, but not a dog…”

Ida pointed across the valley of pasture, to the edge of the forest, where she had seen a beast. Two of our hosts four tiny dogs came running up the driveway, breaking silence with their yipping. The other two sat nervously at our feet, ears at attention, eyes on the trees.

Evening had crept into A Roxica; a soft mist continued to drip from the albergue awning and dull the colors of the countryside.

“El bosque tiene lobos?” I ask the presumable husband of our hostess.

“Siiiiiii…” grumbled the cattle farmer, raising his brow and turning his chin down at us. He proceeded to tell us many things, about his cows and his dogs, and los lobos. I understood very little of his mysterious tale, but I clearly understood one bit: Pilgrims, he said, should not be out walking in the evening, and not too early in the morning either. There ARE wolves in Galicia.

Ida and I slept in the next morning, not setting off into another drizzly morning until well after nine. A half hour into our way, we stopped in our tracks.

“Listen…”

A comotion had errupted across the valley, not far away. Many canines of unknown variety howled and barked and snarled in a frenzy that silenced the other creatures of the hillside.

“I dont think anyone here has that many dogs.” My eyebrows raised at Ida, who shuddered slightly, and resumed quickly down the lane.

“I do NOT like this way.” She said as I did my best to keep up with her frantic march.

Ask anyone who lives here and they will tell you, there ARE wolves in Galicia.

Sebastian Says

“My panties?” Sebastian asks as I fish into my freshly dried sleeping bag-liner for a mysterious ball-of-something.

I chuckle under my breath at what I thought was a joke.

Standing at about 6’4, Sebastian the young German man does not crack a smile.

I pull from the liner a large pair of pinstriped boxers and hold them up for his examination.

“Oh good, my panties.”

He nods politely and takes his undergarments, retreating to his bunk without so much as a giggle.

“Sebastian, you know that they aren’t called panties, right?” I ask him later at dinner. He is hunched over a bowl of now-steaming canned stew.

“Yes, they are my panties. What do YOU call them?”

“Underwear…maybe boxers in this case.”

He shakes his head dismissively, plunging his spoon into a chunk of potato.

Soon after he finishes, Ida and I offer him some of a salad of which we made too much. We plate a generous helping for him, and he goes to work.

“STICK TO THE PLAN!” Sebastian slams his hands down on the table, and then continues munching at his gratis leafy greens. Ida chokes on her pesto pasta and I almost spit my wine into the floor, Sebastian continues to eat, looking curiously at the two of us, fighting fits of laughter.

For desert, I have my Milka Cookies, like always. In Ida and Sebastian’s company I have put down maybe six or seven tubes of them.

“You love those cookies SO HARD.” Sebastian observes.

After clearing tears from my eyes and NOT choking on my postre, I try to explain why Ida and I continually crack up at his statements. He does not understand, nor does he seem to care. Not everything translates.

I wonder how many times I have tried to find the nearest ATM and accidentally asked where I can have a doorknob resoled.

I met Sebastian one last time in Sobrado, where a monastery has stood for nearly a millennium. The facade of the church was carved granite, worn to many tones of grey, brown, and green. Ivy grew without hinderance up the twin bell towers, where colonies of pidgens had made thair homes. The building was a stark contrast from the grandiose presence of most popular Spanish Cathedrals. I had spent all afternoon laying atop a stone wall in it’s shadow.

“What did you think?” I asked him over a grilled chicken breast.

“Sick shit.” He replied, grinning proudly at his English proficiency.