Signatura Verum: Coffea

The most profound sensory encounter I experienced with the coffee plant during our field work occurred after the cupping at Batdorf and Bronson.  When asked by a few of us after the tasting, our hosts shared a custom essential oil set used as a sensory training and reference tool for coffee tasters, and among the vials was an essence of the arabica flower.  Essential oils are often so strong that they permeate and shift the barrier usually posited between the senses of smell and taste; the essence of the coffee was an exemplar of this effect.  The vial brought to mind a Gaian diadem of tropical blossoms, exposing an alliance between Coffea arabica and a host of other richly sensual flowers, particularly jasmine and ylang ylang.  Its smell was so intense as to be synesthetic; I felt like I was standing in a cloud forest and had just literally eaten a handful of coffee blossoms.  Experiencing the essential oil of the coffee flower also clarified a substratum of subtle flavors I often taste in specialty coffees but have had no point of reference for until that moment.  I realized then that the “floral” notes I am more and more urged to recognize in the expensive coffees sold in all those wildly proliferating post-industrial hipster cafes is actually the the sense-memory of the plant’s erotic power, the signature of its flower.

Photo found at http://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Coffeaarabica

A Natural History of the Black Seed

 

 

Within the Green Kingdom there exists a vast family of flowering plants known as the Rubiaceae, a nation which counts as members a number of well-known and loved genera, including Rubia (madder), Galium (woodruff), Gardenia, and the treasured Coffea, which yields one of the most widely traded plant products in the world, the coffee bean.  The coffee bean – technically a seed – is mostly obtained from two species: Coffea arabica, providing about 60 % or more of the world’s supply, and Coffea canephora, also known as Robusta, which accounts for the remaining 40% (Hoffman 12).  Coffee is grown on every continent which spans the tropics of Cancer and Capricorn and can only grow there; it is at its best in areas of moderate rainfall and on hillsides between 1000 and 3000 ft in elevation (Crawford 50).

The black seed of arabica has been spreading across the world since before 800 AD, and there are dozens if not hundreds of localized varieties adapted to specific conditions borne of its diaspora.  Its zone of highest genetic diversity is in the highlands of southwestern Ethiopia, an area considered by many to be its original homeland (Hein 177).  As a potent bioactive medicine it has been revered for centuries; Avicenna wrote of the properties of coffee in the year 900.  It contains dozens of synergistic alkaloids but its primary draw – and undoubtedly the source of its incredible power and influence – is the stimulant caffeine, although it also, like the similarly small, dark and tropical cacao bean, contains small amounts of theobromine.

Coffee has been a plant of infamy since it was first cultivated in Yemen and Ethiopia and smuggled to Europe in the late Middle Ages.  Its history is inexorably intertwined with the other famous commodities of European colonialism, notably cacao, sugar, tea, and human slaves, and it is today traded on global markets alongside petroleum and wheat.  Shrines to the coffee god can be found in breakrooms, waiting rooms, and many private homes across the Western world.

Crawford, John. “History of Coffee.” Journal of the Statistical Society of London 15, no. 1 (1852): 50–58. doi:10.2307/2338310.
James Hoffmann, author. The World Atlas of Coffee : From Beans to Brewing : Coffees Explored, Explained and Enjoyed. Richmond Hill, Ontario: Firefly Books, 2014.
Hein, Lars, and Franz Gatzweiler. “The Economic Value of Coffee (Coffea Arabica) Genetic Resources.” Ecological Economics 60, no. 1 (November 1, 2006): 176–85. doi:10.1016/j.ecolecon.2005.11.022.