Signatura Verum: Coffea

The most profound sensory encounter I experienced with the coffee plant during our field work occurred after the cupping at Batdorf and Bronson.  When asked by a few of us after the tasting, our hosts shared a custom essential oil set used as a sensory training and reference tool for coffee tasters, and among the vials was an essence of the arabica flower.  Essential oils are often so strong that they permeate and shift the barrier usually posited between the senses of smell and taste; the essence of the coffee was an exemplar of this effect.  The vial brought to mind a Gaian diadem of tropical blossoms, exposing an alliance between Coffea arabica and a host of other richly sensual flowers, particularly jasmine and ylang ylang.  Its smell was so intense as to be synesthetic; I felt like I was standing in a cloud forest and had just literally eaten a handful of coffee blossoms.  Experiencing the essential oil of the coffee flower also clarified a substratum of subtle flavors I often taste in specialty coffees but have had no point of reference for until that moment.  I realized then that the “floral” notes I am more and more urged to recognize in the expensive coffees sold in all those wildly proliferating post-industrial hipster cafes is actually the the sense-memory of the plant’s erotic power, the signature of its flower.

Photo found at http://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Coffeaarabica

Insights from roasters and how cafes portray terroir

Three favorite insights from OCR and B & B:

Insight From Who/Where When
Intensity of testing coffee before buying Oliver at Olympia Coffee Roasters 11/10/15
Starbucks is ‘Specialty Coffee’ Olympia Coffee Roasters 11/10/15
Fermentation may homogenize flavor Batdorf & Bronson 11/17

How Olympia cafes educate on terroir:

Business Name Business Address Aspect of Terroir
Batdorf & Bronson 111 Market St NE, Olympia WA Coffee origin and flavor profiles
Burial Grounds 406 Washington St SE, Olympia WA A lot of emphasis on flavor rather than origin
Sizizis(closed) 704 4th ave E, Olympia WA Marketed specific origins of their coffees and teas
Obsidian 414 4th ave E, Olympia WA Use of local herbs and flavors in mixed drinks

Photo credit: http://www.vintagecitymaps.com/images/maps/Olympia_WA_1879_Glover.jpg