The Multi-Cultural History and Contemporary Business of Oysters

By Wilson Caicedo

The Pacific Oyster (Crassostrea gigas), native to Japan, was first introduced to Washington State in 1902. When it proved it was successful, regular shipments of Pacifics began in the 1920s. Hood Canal and Willapa Bay produced the first successful brood stock in 1937. However, it has been introduced to 73 countries with successful cultivation in 17 countries. Ruesink 2005

Due to over harvesting and pollution in the Pacific Northwest, the indigenous Olympia oyster (Ostrea lurida) fell into decline at the turn of the century. To save the industry, the American oyster (Crassostrea virginica) was introduced to the area but did not survive well under the natural conditions. It was then that the Pacific oyster was introduced and ultimately became the staple for cultivation in the region.

 

The Pacific oyster (Crassostrea gigas) has been introduced in coastal waters around the world. The map shows the Pacific oyster's non-native range in red and native range in blue, by marine ecoregion (Molnar et al. 2008, Frontiers in Ecology and the Environment).

The Pacific oyster (Crassostrea gigas) has been introduced in coastal waters around the world. The map shows the Pacific oyster’s non-native range in red and native range in blue, by marine ecoregion (Molnar et al. 2008, Frontiers in Ecology and the Environment).

Willapa Bay
In some of the earliest documentation of the Northwest, the oysterman James G. Swan recounts his experiences in the region. He first settled on Willapa Bay, then called Shoalwater Bay in 1852. His friend, Charles J.W. Russell, invited him out to the Bay shortly after he settled there 1851, where he was then harvesting Olympias. He lived there until 1855, then continued to explore the region more and wriite aqbout his travels back on the east coast. Throughout his time in the Northwest, Swan made friends with a number of Native American tribes, including the Quinault, Clallam, Haida, and Makah Tribes. He learned the native trade language as well as several Chehalis languages. By building relationships with local tribes, Swan  became highly skilled in harvesting oysters. Oldham 2003
However, with increasing demand for delicious Olympia oyster in San Francisco and Portland markets, it became commercially-extinct by the late 1800s. By the time Pacifics arrived to the Northwest, after unsuccessful attempts to grow C. Virginica, Willapa Bay began to transform. Pacific oysters form large reefs of hard substrate on mudflats; smooth cordgrass, which has extended the salt marsh down a vertical meter or so; and Japanese eelgrass, a small eelgrass species that has vegetated mudflats below the cordgrass. (McCoy 2013)
Contemporary Business
Pacific oysters benefit the aquaculture industry more than any other oyster due to their ability to grow so fast. C. Gigas were worth almost $85 million in Washington State alone in 2005 (Harris 2008). A majority of regions in the state hold shellfish aquaculture as the single largest employer. It is often debated whether C. Gigas is ‘invasive’ or a ‘nuisance,’ since they play such a large economic role. Different varieties of Pacific oysters have been cultivated in the region as well, that have provided beneficial impacts to the shellfish market in Washington. Kumamoto (Crassostrea sikamea)varieties can grow well and serve well for the market of oysters because of the desire for their deep cup shells.

However, humans and other industries compete with Pacific oysters. Culture rafts and surface long lines can be damaged by sail boats and water skis; sports that are common in the region. Recreational shellfish harvesters, take or damage oysters. Many wealthy property owners tend to believe that aquaculture operations nearby have a negative effect on the value their shore property. Diesel engines called “flopsies” in particular, anger shore residents because the continuous loud noise they produce. Industrial competition can take the form of physical habitat deterioration, water pollution or both. Sulphite waste from pulp and paper mills and fecal contamination in the water damages mortalities to a decline in animal growth and in the quality of the meat. In Samish Bay, seed oysters which used to grow to market size in two years took five years to reach market size after their growing area was affected by pollution. Meat yields went from 80120 oysters per gallon to 130200 oysters per gallon. (Lavoie 2016).

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