Terroir Definition

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Local produce traveling a short distance with low carbon emission / Photo by Willow-Creek Feighery

 

 

Terroir is putting food in a cultural context, playing off of flawed human memory, halcyon, affected by cultural normalities, culture dictating how gender and laboral roles are perceived and administered. These sociologic ideas merge with more solid ideas of earth, balance, interconnectedness and serendipity of soil science; pH, nutrient availability, human-impacted soils/environments affecting what is grown, leading back to ask: can have terroir if humans have too far removed the food from its original context? How far is too far?

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Attributing Taste to Terroir: Opinion

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Hand holding flavored processed insects / photo by Willow-Creek Feighery

 

The bug chewed the leaves to oxidase them. Terroir. The machine ran over the leaves and bit the leaves. Terroir? The leaves could oxidize on the plant in two ways; bitten by hand or bitten by insecta. Would the flavor remain the same? Would they taste different if I told you the story of the Queen of England and her enjoyment of the “damaged crop”? Flavor and perception of quality can so be influenced by story and advertising that it is hard to distinguish between a “unique” products and something that is well advertised. Or is there no such distinction?

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Inside Taste: Tea Tasting Insights

3 favorite insights from tea tastings done in class in weeks 1,2, and 5:

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photo by Willow-Creek Feighery / which do you consider your cup of tea?

  1. Our group really enjoyed tea tasting sipping teas while listening to the story of tea from a historical perspective of someone who knows the worker and the British/Indian history of tea, changing the flavors of the tea and our appreciation for the teas we were tasting.
  2. As all tea comes from the same plant, Camellia Sinensis, flavor differences come not from the species, but from a variety of shifting, changing parts including;  varietal, weather, location, soil type, harvest style (which may affect quality in terms of tea product and damage), and processing (including oxidation).
  3. Most Indian teas, unlike Chinese varieties, are made to be served with milk and sugar, detached from much ceremony and more for pleasure. The cream and sugar are comforting, but also help disguise the quality of the tea in many cases, and the soils are not as desirable and create a very bitter Camellia Sinensis.
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Tea Talk in Chinatown: with Anthony DeVries

Get a taste– or savor –a minute with Anthony DeVries as he compares Chinese teas to French wine varieties and comments on tannins, find the video here

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Bibliography

Works Cited

 

“Botanical Information,Plant Description Of Camellia Sinensis.” Botanical Information,Plant Description Of Camellia Sinensis. MDidea Exporting Division Extracts Professional, 19 Aug. 2015. Web. 8 Feb. 2016.

 

Sealy, J. (1958) A Revision of the Genus Camellia, Royal Horticultural Society, London.

 

“The Plant: Camellia Sinensis.” The Plant: Camellia Sinensis. In Pursuit of Tea, 2014. Web. 8 Feb. 2016.

 

“Tea Fact Sheet.” Tea USA News. Tea Association of the USA, 2015. Web. 8 Feb. 2016.

 

“Tea Origins and Geography ­ Learn About Where Tea Is Grown.” Tea Origins and Geography ­ Learn About Where Tea Is Grown. Coffee Tea Warehouse, 2015. Web. 8 Feb. 2016.

 

“Tea.” Plant Village. N.p., 20 Apr. 2015. Web. 8 Feb. 2016.

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The Plantation History and Contemporary Business of Tea

Component by Tai Jordan / photo by Willow-Creek Feighery

 

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Passed, let go, no longer with us, in a better place, all phrases used to soften an otherwise seemingly devastating blow– the reality of the truth. The truth is not something anyone in the nation of America is taught to believe in as constructive part of living and more importantly thought of being something that alone isn’t enough it needs to be embellished in order to be captivating enough for someone to listen. It’s true no one can handle the truth we are taught to run from it so we do. At some point some also think what’s that point of the truth if still many line up to buy various goods, specifically tea knowing what they know. To some extent ignorance is bliss for some this works out because one can’t actively engage in oppression if they can still claim they “didn’t know what they were doing”, but what is the excuse if you do know? What happens now? Reading The Darjeeling Distinction by Sarah Besky really forced me to think about the injustices the systems of the colonial era instilled and how in post-colonial times they have continued to structure modern day practices– or do they?

 

Originally the workers on these plantations were given something that was deemed as “fair” in terms of compensation– house improvements, land, food, money etc. However, as Tea became more centralized in mass production and not the quality of the production it has become vastly different from its original system; in terms of the follow through required of the plantation management team. Fairness and Justness are now ideas painted for the enjoyment of the consumer a way to pat one’s self on the back and say I did my good deed for the day I do not actively involve myself in worldly injustice.

 

Fair trade does not exist for the betterment of the worker’s family, condition or status. Laborers called farmers, plantations often referred to as gardens, smiling faces of women plastered to billboards romanticizing, glamorizing, and distancing the consumer further from the colossal problem that is fair trade. The saddening part is that after listening to a talk by Yoshiko Harden I came to realize their system is perfect. The reason I say this because there is no such thing as a flawed system. If we stop to think for a moment who the system was designed by, who it was supposed to benefit, and who currently keeps the system intact, it’s all the same people who put it in place to being with- Businessmen.

 

It has always been a business. Someone figured out that Tea was a goldmine and didn’t have to work very hard to disenfranchise a people because there were no labor restrictions already in place. They knew people needed work so why not create jobs in exchange for a specific unexplained compensation of some sort. Only later post-colonial era did someone say this is unjust. The institution of fair trade was implemented for a number of reasons one of them being as a means of minimizing the financial gap between laborers, plant. Managers, and the market. Now doing more hurt than good it is the blanket regulations that exploitation operates under legally!

 

Terroir is being abused and misused as a marketing ploy. Reaching the consumer on the level that taste of place is only as genuine as the place it comes from plays to this idea of authenticity; increasing the market value automatically. Someone will pay more for tea “made in India” than they would for tea “made in California.”

 

At the end of it all I walked away with a vast sense of knowing, but now the question I am tasked with challenging is my integrity as a human of the earth and my fluid place in it. How I operate now is completely different just by asking the question is knowledge the key that enables me to go farther or does it dismantle the very people it sought to educate, is that ignorance ultimately bliss? Still processing.               

 

The world doesn’t need us to heal. When we have all vanished into to the distance and are the present history, the earth will heal. How do we choose to inhabit it in our short time here, and at whose expense it’s  time to step up or be stepped on the roots we come from the depths of the sea to the tallest mountain deserve more, we can do more, we can be more, we are more!

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Tea, Taste, and Memory

Perspective by Tai Jordan / photo by Willow-Creek Feighery

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Tea tasting, for me is not as simple as it seems. This idea of tasting and where it comes from. What is it to genuinely engage in the act of tasting tea. Is it the way the tea moves across the taste buds, tantalizing sensations are sending messages to the brain; sweet, sour, bitter, bland all taste but are they flavors or feelings associated with what happens as our body reacts to the stimulus? Thus far this quarter has not been what I expected in terms of tasting tea. Before this class I had never quite gotten to experience tea the way I have now. Although not my ideal drink in a sweet or neutral pallet, tea has challenged me with sensations I am unfamiliar with and avenues I have yet to explore. The most impressionable tea tasting came not with the tea but with the place. My favorite tea related thing I tasted was in San Francisco when we ventured into TEN-REN-TEA a tea house in the heart of Chinatown, San Fran.  I was encapsulated with the aromas, the sounds, the atmosphere it all held into an experience I was unaware I was going to have. I began to listen I heard porcelain cups chattering, metal spoons stirring, tea brewing. The grassy, oaky, nutty aroma blending into the air forcing my sense to choose one. Acknowledging they could not exist as strong individually as they did together, however individually they were all unique as well the tea I tasted was a black tea from china called Keemun. The tea was astringent, oh so bitter. However, that’s what made it my favorite, I do not have the knack for bitter drinks but in that moment being in the company of friends, the green paint on the walls adding life through color to the environment, the smiles, the tea tasted different still bitter but not as bitter as it once was.

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Natural History of Tea

by: Jahni Threatt

Botanical Description

Tea, the most widely consumed beverage in the world, comes from a plant called Camellia sinensis. The plant is a member of the Theaceae family and a subspecies of the genus Camellia. The Camellia sinensis plant is an evergreen bush. On farms these bushes are usually trimmed to a height of two to four feet, but they have the ability to grow up to thirty feet tall in the wild. Other features of the plant include rough bark, short gray stalk, dark green leaves, and occasional distinctive white blossoms that resemble roses.  

Native and Cultivated Geographic Ranges

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The genus Camellia includes over 80 different species all native to the highlands of Southeastern Asia. This area includes modern-day northeast India, north Burma, southwest China and Tibet. India is the world’s number exporter of tea, and home to the famous Darjeeling tea, which is considered to be the “champagne of teas”. China is another big tea exporter. China exports mostly black tea leaves, but only exports about 20-25% of their green tea leaves (the rest is consumed). Other geographic regions known for cultivating tea include Japan, known for exclusively exporting green teas, East Africa, known for exporting fragmented black teas, Russia, and parts of South America.

 

Suitable Climate

Understanding climate is essential to understanding what conditions are suitable for growing tea. Climate is very easily influenced by elevation and moisture, and moisture and precipitation have a large influence on the health of a tea plant. Mountain slopes are ideal sites for tea cultivation due to the fact that they have good drainage. Tea plants need water, but not idle, looming water, so good drainage is a must. With that being said, 120cm-150cm is the ideal amount of rainfall required for tea plants; too much rain may cause erosion, root damage or even undesirable flavors after the tea is harvested. Although these are ideal growing conditions, the producing regions of tea are subject to widely varying climatic conditions.

 

Suitable Soil Properties

As stated before, because of the risk of erosion tea plants require decent drainage; therefore mountain-like soils with good drainage are key. Tea plants also prefer acidic soils with a pH ranging from about 4.5 to 5.5. Shallow and compact soils are not ideal for tea plants, as they may limit or cause damage to the roots of the plant. The consequences of growing tea plants in these kinds of soils include drought during the drier months and over-saturation during rainy months. Tea plants also flourish in soils that contain lime, iron, and large amounts of humus.

 

Major Pests and Diseases

Tea plants suffer from many pests and diseases. A few of them include, Camellia dieback and canker, Camellia flower blight, Root rot, Algal leaf spot, Blister blight, Horsehair blight, Red root disease, Tea scale, Aphids, and spider mites.

  • Camellia dieback and canker is a disease caused by a fungus that can enter through wounds on the the tea leaves. This disease causes tea leaves to yellow and wilt, kills branch tips, blotches on stem and bark that become sunken areas, and more. Good drainage and the removal of diseases stems can help reduce spread and infection.

 

  • Root rot is a disease caused by an oomycete, which is a fungus-like eukaryotic microorganism, and emerges in areas where there is poor drainage and warm soils. Root rot causes tea leaves to turn yellow, inhibits plant growth, discolors roots, can cause the entire plant to wilt, or even worse, rapid death of the plant.This particular disease can be difficult to control once it has begin to spread, but good drainage is always a great help.

 

  • Algal leaf spot is a disease caused by algae and thrives in high temperatures and humidity. This disease may cause green or gray spots on the leaf with a green-lined brim. Algal leaf spot can be avoided by providing plants with adequate spacing, pruning when appropriate, removing diseased leaves, and avoid overhead watering.

 

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  • Aphids are little soft bodied insects with tubular structures called cornicles on the end half of its body. Aphids are usually found on the undersides of leaves and is responsible for the yellowing of tea leaves, causing damage by biting holes through the leave, stunted plant growth, and even mold. Aphids can usually be avoided by pruning or a rough spraying from a water hose; however if the infestation becomes too large you may have to resort to killing them (with either insecticide or manually with a knife).

 

  • Spider mites are tiny arachnids. They can be found on the underside of tea leaves or on the webs that they spin on the top of the leaves. Spider mites can cause yellow spots on leaves, give leaves a bronze-like appearance and more. Spider mites infestations can also be managed with a rough spraying from a water hose or insecticides.

 

Propagation Methods

There are two methods of tea propagation; seeds and rooted stem cuttings. The first method is propagation by seed, which is simply growing the tea plant from the seed. The seed is usually soaked, germinated, then placed in a nursery. After being trimmed to desired length the young plant is transplanted into the ground. Tea plants are typically ready to harvest after three years. In the rooted stem cutting method nodes from desired varieties are placed in bags of compact soil and watered regularly. After six to nine months the new tea plants are removed from the bags and placed in the ground.

 

Cultivation and Harvest Practices

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In 2014, the U.S. received 285 million pounds of tea. Unlike most monoculture crops in the US, tea is a delicate crop that is usually not harvested by a machine. Tea leaves are typically harvested by hand. The only leaves that are harvested are the young leaves usually at the top of the bush, along with a small portion of the stem. As we learned in Darjeeling Distinction, the labor force of the tea industry is female dominated as a result of numerous political, economic, and social factors. The image of smiling women harvesting tea leaves is used in countless tea advertisements. Many have argued that this  along with misleading organic and fair trade disguises the true face and injustices within the industry.

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