Terroir Tea Case Study

Group 9 - Winter Quarter 2015

Terroir +

Terroir +______ Components

4a)  Terroir is the effect of environmental, social, ecological and cultural factors on the distinct taste of foods such as wine, chocolate, coffee, tea and oysters. The concept, originating in France has long been related to regional production of wines and cheeses but has taken on a more commodity driven turn since expanding to other countries.

4b)  Since exploring terroir and examining tea in relation to terroir the importance of location, soil, season and other factors have become clear in their distinct effects on flavor. Throughout India, certain regions like Nilgiris and Darjeeling are preferred to others due to their unique combination of soil, climate, ecology and to some extent, marketing. In our class tea tasting experience and what seems to be a consensus between avid tea drinkers the second flush of tea, harvested in June is often considered the most desirable flush, with a full bodied amber taste and higher market demand.

 

Original post by Chloe Landrieu Murphy; edited by Chloe Landrieu Murphy, Caroline App, Pat Weaver

Field Study

Field Study Components:

3a) Our Favorite Tea Tastings

 

WHO TEA TASTING TEA TASTED REASON
Caroline, Chloe, Pat, Mikko Abir’s tea discoveries in India

(Wk 1)

Assam Golden Tips Our group feels the aroma of the tea was woody with floral notes, with a mild flavor but full bodied.While the flavor was short with a little milk and honey added, the taste lingered.
Caroline, Chloe, Pat, Mikko Dewey Meyer’s Tea Tasting (a tea gathering Wk 5) Su Ji Chun With a buttery, light aroma, this tea had flavors of honeysuckle, jasmine and sweet honey. We also noted the mouthfeel was smooth and resembled hot bitters.
Caroline, Chloe, Pat, Mikko A Tour of Indian Teas with Raj Vable of Young Mountain Teas (Wk 5) White Tea The second flush white tea we preferred had an aroma of seaweed and hints of perfume, while the bolder taste of this second flush tea boasted dried fruits and apricots, with a clean finish.

3c)

3d) Favorite Tea Tasted

 

Often times when tasting, my attempts to surrender my mind to different teas often muddles my equally prominent desire to favor one distinguished tea which brings me joy; I don’t want to “choose” a tea yet I always do.

In China town at Vital Leaf Tea, I tasted a white tea called “White Peony”.

Building on Proust’s The Madeleine, when I saw the tea, I knew I would find it to be as “simple” as any other white tea. Maybe it was the light pouring in outside or the splashes the tea maker produced on the wood counter when pouring the tea, but when I tasted the tea, one moment stood out to me. It was the “first” instance something touches your tongue and you pick up the first impression of the taste.

It was fruitful and fleeting, words I often apply to childhood. Maybe I thought it was childlike to favor white tea, but at the tea shop, I couldn’t disqualify it anymore. The taste was tart and sweet like a ripe apricot, but floral because I saw the pink peonies that grew in my backyard once. They reached through the pyramid iron structure that enclosed them, towards the sky, towards the sunlight. Except now I could see and taste the petals. There was always water droplets on them, while the soil was richly watered. In my mind, the site was literary.

This literary vision reminds me that tea needs water to be made. The peonies also needed water. They were always cold, the air chilly. When I smelled them, I smelled “petal”, with cold water as the end note.

I thought of this same finesse when I finally swallowed the warm tea. The finish I tasted was water. And I know in all its significance in the world, water is not simple. I live by water. This tea was as close to water, while reaching through iron pyramids, as I could get. When it was gone, I had the chance to remember. That is when I knew I loved white tea and had to bring it back from China Town with me.

 

3e) The Plantation History and Contemporary Business of Tea:  In this component provide images and text that demonstrate what you learned during your Olympia tea tasting and seminar work regarding the relationship between the colonial history and contemporary business aspects of tea.  In particular, and based on your experience in relation to Beskey’s The Darjeeling Distinction, please address how “terroir” (or components of terroir, such as tea variety, where grown) is/are being used to increase value, establish authenticity, highlight gastronomic pleasure, and a sense of place in relationship to the business aspects of tea within a historical and global context.

In Sarah Besky’s The Darjeeling Distinction, Labor and Justice on Fair-Trade Tea Plantations in India Besky examines and critiques the Fair-trade, GI and Ghorkaland movements and the colonial tea plantation system as a whole. Besky argues that the Fair-Trade, GI and Gorkhaland movements visions of social justice feed off of the colonial plantation system but fail to incorporate perspectives of those actually working in the tea fields and includes a disciplined forgetting  of the colonial power structures and histories in which the plantations were built.
tea garden

 

The Fair-Trade, GI and Ghorkaland movements all capitalize off of “The Third World Agrarian Imaginary” and a fictionalized distant past that allows the consumer a false sense of redemption and aiding of those living through the injustice of the colonial systems in which the plantations exist. The Darjeeling regions global terroir distinction stems from western European and British colonial notions in regards to the relationship between environment and flavor.

The false sense of consumer savior-ship Fair-Trade draws upon creates a high demand for terroir-laden products and a consumer willing to pay higher prices for a product that supposedly aids the workers harvesting the tea. Besky states “Fair Trades vision, in other words, accounts for neither long-standing moral economic relationships within plantations nor institutions already in place to support plantation labor (115).

 

Original post by Caroline App and Chloe Landrieu Murphy, Pat Weaver, and Mikko Freeman; edited by Caroline App, Chloe Landrieu Murphy, Pat Weaver, and Mikko Freeman.

Natural History of Tea

Featured image taken by Chloe Landrieu Murphy at Vital Leaf Tea in Seattle with store permission.

 

Darjeeling

Photograph from google noncommercial reuse

 

The tea plant is an evergreen small tree or shrub native to the camellia sinensis family. Camellia sinensis produces dark green leaves that have a shiny look to them and small white blossoms.

The camellia sinensis plant is native to China, Tibet, and northern India. Camellia sinensis which is the small leaf variety, is best grown in the cool, high mountain regions in central China and Japan. Camellia assamica, considered the broad leaf variety, is best suited to grow in moist, tropical climates found in Northeast India and in Szechuan and Yunnan provinces of China.

 

map

 

Suitable climate for the tea plant can handle light frosts and snow, but not prolonged winters or intense freezes. The dormancy phase of tea does not need to be cold like many other plants. During growing season, the plant does require a fair amount of rainfall and humidity. The highest quality of teas are said to be grown in subtropical climates with seasonality. Elevation plays a huge role in tea quality, as the tea plant can only be grown within a certain range of altitudes. Teas show greater characteristics and desirability at higher elevations, however conditions become too cold. According to RateTea, after about 8,000 feet in elevation, conditions become less and less optimistic (RateTea comprehensive tea resources “Climate, Geography, and Tea Production”). As such, colder and drier climates farther from the equator affect the highest elevation possible to grow tea, and become less and less able regions for growing tea. Tea plants also like to be shielded from direct sunlight and wind, so trees are often planted on the outskirts. “Ambient temperature within 13°C and 28-32°C is conducive for growth of tea. Maximum ambient temperature above 32°C is unfavourable for optimum photosynthesis more so if it is accompanied by low humidity” (Tocklai Tea Research Association “Tea Cultivation”). 200-400cm of well distributed rainfall is needed for the plant, as it does not like long dry periods (Tocklai Tea Research) .

The tea plant has periods of dormancy, usually in winter, and periods of harvest throughout the year. In warmer climates, the plants can have many “flushes” (times when the tea can be plucked). First flush leaves are said to be more delicate, fresh, an floral while the second flush leaves have a more robust, full bodied flavor. First flush runs as early as February and can run through April. The second flush can start in April and may run through May or June. The leaves produced are broader and larger, and are known for a fuller bodied flavor. After that, the monsoon flush goes from June or July through October, and the autumnal flush happens in October and November. (“What is First Flush?” Teatulia Single Garden Teas). After picking and transporting, the tea is typically withered to lose some of its moisture. At this stage the leaves are fragile and can break apart. Rolling will then start the oxidation process as the tea leaves release some of their chemical compounds and aromas. Oxidation is what ultimately sets the pace for what kind of tea the leaf will be. The longer the tea is oxidized, the darker the color and richer the flavor. Black teas are highly oxidized, while white teas have little to no oxidation. Once the desired oxidation level has been reached, the tea is heated to stop the oxidation process. This process must be done correctly in order to ensure cup quality.

Sandy loam soil is preferred as well as virgin soil when propagating Camellia Sinensis. When planting seedbeds should be no wider than 1.5m. In many Indian tea regions beds are prepared flat 10-15 cm above ground level. Nursery beds are enclosed by drains 20cm deep by 20 cm wide that link to an outlet drain. Tea seeds are planted in the nursery beds in rows 1.5cm in the soil with the eye of the seed facing downwards. (Das, Suresh Chandra. “Breeding the Tea Plant (Camelia Sinensis) in India”)

Though tea is grown in a variety of soils the best for production have proven to be light friable loam with porous sub-soil allowing for percolation of water. The soils of southern India’s tea regions contain low calcium content, acidity and an abundance of sesquioxides resulting in strong P fixation. The presence of iron in sub-soil is advantageous in tea growth. Sloping land and hills are most desirable for the growth of Camellia Sinensis but because of the slopes erosion is often a problem that is combated by planting the tea bushes in lines along the contours of the slopes. (Chand, Smriti. “Growth of Tea: Suitable Conditions Required for the Growth of Tea.” YourArticleLibrary)

Tea trees are susceptible to root rot with poorly drained, warm soils. Symptoms of root rot include the plant wilting, the leaves turning yellow, discolored roots and the plant growing poorly or suddenly dying. Well drained soils as well as fungicides can help prevent infection. Insects including tea aphids can cause the leaves to yellow or discolored and distorted spots on the leaves. They secrete a sticky substance that aids in sooty mold growth on the plants. Insecticides are generally only needed for a large infestation and some branches can be jetted with water to shake them loose or a few branches cut. (Plantvillage.org “Common Pests and Diseases”)