Bill Arney

Warmer and more crowded.  Started the day in the shade of the river valley, around 4ºC, but walked up the other side of the valley, into the sun and started shedding layers. Not a peaceful walk like yesterday’s. Many people, many groups including,  imagine this, a school group. You don’t have to ask where the Camino is; you just follow the line of backpacks. Azura and Pedrouzo, the main towns on this stage, are pilgrim oriented, lots of albergues and conchas on every business, no matter what’s for sale.  The municipal albergue packs a lot of pilgrims in a small space, but there’s a nice kitchen, almost enough plugs to recharge all the gadgets, and it’s still 6€.

Just out of Ribadisio you encounter a garbage can with “free philosophy” written on it and then a line of posters, in Spanish and English, containing some of the great quotes from philosophers (Ronald Reagan even gets an entry) and spiritual leaders.  And there’s a promise of more free philosophy at km 33. At km 33, more sayings, a food cart (food for the belly, not, directly,  the mind), a large gathering of pilgrims and Bruno, the “seeker”/philosopher behind it all.   I asked where he studied philosophy.  “Here, in this life, in conversation.” Good start.  And it just got better. Talk with him. He’ll drag you into philosophy and, if you read all the way to the end of the  sayings on his wall, into the Bible (as studied by Bruno, not as preached by any church). Just another creative quirk on El Camino. And the cake was good too.

No, this is not a new map you have to post on. It’s an invitation to tell others good dishes you have invented for yourself and others on the Way. Here are two things we have enjoyed out of Liza’s recipe book.

1. Red pepper boats. In the markets there are these huge (7″ high, 3″ diameter, 1/3 kilo) sweet, burnt red peppers. Cut into slices. Fill a slice with Jamon-wrapped stick of cheese. We’ve often used the Basque sheep cheese idiazabal. You don’t have to use jamon. You don’t have to use anything.  Just eat the peppers.

2. Broccoli bits. Get one of the nice heads of broccoli in the market. Steam it to desired tenderness. Cut into bite-or-bigger chunks. Put them into a bag when cool; add olive oil, salt and pepper. Shake the bag. Eat all the next day.

Bill