So far this week my feet have carried me through trails of mud, up hillsides and into ancient castle ruins, and through magical paths that lead me onto the backs of horses…
A very kind man let me ride his beautiful horse for a few precious moments- it was truly a Camino dream come true! Next Camino goal: to milk a cow.
The first stretch from Hornillos to Castrojeriz was several kilometers of trudging through thick mud. My boots were soaked and heavy with an inch of thick clay caked to the bottom, my eyes glued to the ground as I stepped around puddles, trying not to slip. At times I wondered if everything I was stepping in was indeed completely mud, as every once and a while I would step over used toilet paper…But at least the sun was shining. In my head I heard my mother’s voice mimicking Igor from Young Frankenstien, “Could be worse. Could be raining!!” Indeed. I also found a new friend that morning- Rose from London. She carried a bright pink yoga mat, and was very friendly.
The gorgeous view from where I stopped to pee
When we arrived in Castrojeriz, I stumbled upon a place called “Hospital de Alma, La Casa del Silencio.” It was this darling, quirky little house with meditation cushions and candles on the floor of every room, dried herbs hanging from the ceiling…upon entering I immediately felt a sense of calm and peace. There was a gorgeous garden in the backyard, where I stopped to meditate for a bit, before continuing to explore the rest of the house. On the walls hung a collection of photographs with inspiring quotes in many languages underneath. It was a photo project created by two pilgrims who walked the Camino, and to whom the house belonged.
The garden of “The Hospital of the Soul”
In each photo was a human figure interacting with themselves and another- a person, tree, or stream of light. The photos were made to show the peace and communion that one creates on the Camino, and the liberation from isolation and “noise” of our every day life. It mentioned how many people bring to the Camino aspects of their daily life that weigh them down- the weight of their burdens, both physical and emotional, setting intense expectations, hurrying down the Camino and rushing themselves to Santiago…they said in many ways, we are chasing our own shadows. I read this and cried. This place gave me the cleansing and peace that I needed to remind myself of my intentions for this journey- the Camino is a place to experience life in a connected, wholesome, contemplative way, and I want to return home and live feeling alive, connected, and free.
I was also so intrigued by how a space can hold so much emotion, spirit, and energy, even if I was the only person inside. It’s the same feeling I get when I step foot inside these incredible cathedrals here along the Camino. They are filled to the brim with rich history and wisdom to be soaked in. I was so captivated by how intentionally everything was set up inside the house, for there were mandalas created on every floor and out on the patio, with little altars at every doorstep…the creation of a space can completely determine its energy and the dynamic of the relationship between it and those who enter.
It was so serendipitous that I read and contemplated about this concept of finding communion within oneself and with one’s surroundings, because the very next day I ran into Cooper! We then had a lovely walk and conversation about his project, this house of silence, and our journeys so far on the road. Running into him was a lovely surprise.
Another fun part of the day (because Castrojeriz is seriously one of the coolest villages I’ve visited so far!) was visiting the castle ruins. Jess and I definitely missed the turn off the trail and ended up scrambling vertically up the mountain to get to this place, but it was so beautiful!
Stairway to heaven
Sending lots of love to my family and those of you out there on the road. Perhaps I’ll see more of you soon!
xoxoxo
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