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Casey- April 6th 2016

in Azofra!

Casey- April 5th

Arrived in Navarette today.

Arrived in Navarette today.

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Casey- Monday April 4th

Made it to Viana! 

Pilgrimage for illness

I woke up this morning with a sore throat and a headache, thinking “oh no…nonononono”

I considered staying in Estella to rest, a thought that lasted about five seconds before I dragged myself out of my sleeping bag and out of bed to pack up and head out the door. I wasn’t going to stop walking. I winced as I slung my pack on my back (I added two baguettes, a few bananas, apples, nuts and a jar of cooked lentils because it’s Sunday and I expected tiendas and restaurants to be closed today…) and took a few uneasy steps towards the yellow arrows, my knees wobbling and muscles aching. Jess looked at me concerned, but slowly we began a conversation, which carried us through the next fifteen miles. Not even halfway through the day, I realized my sore throat had eased up, my headache disappeared, and my muscles felt strong and warm rather than weak and sore as they had been upon waking. Walking and breathing the fresh air of rolling hills and vineyard farmland from Estella to Los Arcos had helped ease my illness. Suddenly, the history of pilgrimage originating from people looking for miracles, such as a cure for illness and other ailments, began to make sense to me.

I’m very thankful for the way things have been working out for me on the Camino so far. I feel like there is a synchronicity that has been occurring that I am starting to notice and appreciate.

I’m walking the Camino without a guidebook, which has been working for me wonderfully. I love just knowing which town to end my day in, and leaving everything else open for surprises. I love starting back on the path with no expectations- I don’t want to know what the terrain is going to look like, how many kilometers between each town, etc. I love leaving room for serendipity.

Instead of trusting a guidebook, I’ve been learning to put faith in my intuition, and also in the nature around me. There was a time on my way to Larrasoaña where I questioned my direction- I couldn’t tell if I was following the bike path or pedestrian path. I saw dozens of lizards making their way down a flight of stairs, dancing around my feet as they passed me by. It sounds a little kooky, but I took it as a sign- and I found the way, by following these reptilian friends. Tree branches and holly vines have also shown me similar things that I would have missed if I didn’t allow myself to be surprised by nature.

As for today, I’m happy that I didn’t stay in Estella to rest. Though I was torn at first, I’m glad I continued my routine of walking. I realized I probably would have felt worse staying in bed all day- it was best to get outside and keep moving, creating circulation and getting some sunshine. There is also something so addictive about this daily ritual of moving forward.

I am also so thankful to have spent the day with Jess. It had been a while since we had spent time one-on-one, and it was wonderful to catch up. It was also an eerie stretch of land today from Estella-> Los Arcos. It was a gorgeous landscape: lush, green, rolling hills, vineyards…but there were several abandoned farmhouses and fallen apart structures embedded into the hills, and the looming gray skies increased the creepy vibe. It was also extremely quiet- Jess and I left later than usual, and there were not many other pilgrims on the road. I didn’t necessarily feel unsafe, just got a mild case of the heebie-jeebies. I’m sure it would be a lot more peaceful and beautiful if it was sunnier.

All the more reason I was so happy to be with Jess, and especially not alone. We joked about all the weird things we discovered throughout the day…Engaging in conversation with Jess also helped me forget all about feeling sick, and put me back into harmony with my own body and mind.

I’m happy to keep moving, laughing, breathing, living.

xoxo

Casey- April 3rd

 

Home cooked meal made by our Italian friends- it had been a while since we had seen them, and 2 weeks since I've had to do dishes! Who knew I would be so excited to do the dishes...

Home cooked meal made by our Italian friends- it had been a while since we had seen them, and 2 weeks since I’ve had to do dishes! Who knew I would be so excited to do the dishes…

Walking barefoot and alone

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Though I’ve met many amazing folks out on the road, lately I’ve enjoyed passing the many hours trekking the mountains, sidewalks, and countryside by myself…sometimes barefoot.

It all started the second day, heading out from Roncesvalles. I was pumped up, motivated, and wanted to go fast! I started booking it down the trail, with long strides, shoulders back, and head up, when I felt a tap on the shoulder. Shiloh was behind me, informing me that I had overlooked the yellow arrow and was heading in the wrong direction.

I of course felt initially a little embarrassed and laughed at myself a bit, but then was astonished at myself! I had totally missed the whole point of the Camino (for myself)- I was so wrapped up in my own ego and sense of competition that I completely missed the way! From then on, I’ve walked intentionally slow and steady, conscious of every step, taking time to stop often to pick flowers and herbs (found rosemary and thyme today!), gaze at butterflies, caterpillars, trees, the surrounding mountains; and pet horses, cows and puppies. Sometimes I’m the last one in our group to make it to the albergue, and I’m at a place where I am content with that- it truly is about the richness of the journey than getting to the albergue. However it is comforting to know that I have friends waiting for me at the next stop.

Horses at Larrasoaña

Horses at Larrasoaña

My feet are holding up remarkably well, despite some expected soreness! I just have this mild red heat rash, (a common occurrence for hikers) which I’ve been supplementing with frequent sock changes, taking breaks throughout the day to let my feet dry out, and walking barefoot when my feet get swollen and need a break from my boots (sometimes this hurts to put so much pressure on my bare feet- the weight of my pack is a little bit much. But it feels good to put my bare feet in cool grass in the afternoon).

I’ve also been feeling very good in my body in general. I’m definitely sore in the morning, but that seems to be decreasing each day. My pack doesn’t really feel that heavy anymore! I recently purchased magnesium (the one vitamin I left behind but really missed!) to help ease my muscles and joints. I’ve also been stretching at the end of each day, and drinking a lot of water (I think the main thing throughout the day that momentarily distracts me from enjoying the scenery is trying to find a nice place to pee).

I love socializing and getting to know people, but I’ve also enjoyed breaking off from the group naturally and being by myself, listening to music or singing to the trees. I feel very safe and capable out here. I feel strong.

I can’t help but reflect on a comment that I have been receiving a lot out here (and I keep thinking back to Izzy’s project about women traveling alone) is “Wow, you’re alone? You are so brave, being so young and out here alone.” When the reality is, someone I know and trust is about 50-100 meters ahead of me, maybe less. It’s even more strange when people address Jess, Shiloh and I as being alone while we’re in each other’s company. An older man approached the three of us as we entered Roncevalles, marveling at how we were alone. I made sure to clarify that no, we weren’t traveling alone, but traveling together. Just because a man isn’t present with us at all times does not mean we’re alone. (Thank you Izzy, for some speaking points!)

I find that I benefit from both walking in groups and also from times of quiet reflection with just me and the road. Both situations teach me different things about myself and the ways that I interact with the world. And my feet carry me through it all.

Mind the puffy red feet enjoying the cool breeze

Mind the puffy red feet enjoying the cool breeze


 

 

Thoughts from Estrella

It has been a while since I’ve written a post; I have been very caught up with life on the road and living in the albergues. I thought it was about time that I share a bit of my experiences on the Camino thus far, and the people I have had the privilege to get to know.

Arriving in Saint Jean Pied de Port

Arriving in Saint Jean Pied de Port

I have met some incredible people on the road so far, and friendships have formed instantaneously. It’s contagious-everyone feels overwhelmed with excitement and joy to get to know other pilgrims. I felt this elation when first boarding the train to Bayonne upon noticing scallop shells strapped to backpacks.

I’ve remained in close contact with people I met my first night in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port; though we don’t always walk together during the day, we always count on seeing each other for dinner or at the albergue. When we do see each other, it’s like a gathering of old friends; hugs, hellos, sometimes a kiss on the cheek. It’s hard to imagine that it’s only been a week since we have met, or even less. It already feels like a lifetime.

Camino family- pic taken after a delicious breakfast! L to R: Ida, Marcus, Linda, Clark, Doritina, Shiloh, Jess, me

Camino family- pic taken after a delicious breakfast!
L to R: Ida, Marcus, Linda, Clark, Doritina, Shiloh, Jess, me

This is a rekindling of an old trait for me, to feel so comfortable approaching anyone and striking up a conversation. Social butterfly Casey is slowly emerging from her cocoon, and drying off her new wings; the extrovert in me feels nurtured and encouraged. I’m writing this now, to help cement the social interactions I have experienced and enjoyed, because today I am feeling a bit low energy and in need of recharging and nourishing my inner introvert.

I am so thankful to have met these wonderful people, all so willing to share their stories, food, first aid supplies, smiles, and hearts with me. I am constantly humbled and inspired by the openness and kindness of people on the Camino.

 

Camino family continued! L to R: Rose, Saray, Louis, Marta, Sara, me, Alaina, and Alex

Camino family continued! L to R: Rose, Saray, Louis, Marta, Sara, me, Alaina, and Alex

Within minutes I have told them my deepest worries, wants, and hopes-and they have told me theirs. It’s unlike anything I’ve experienced before- this sense of community that runs deep, beyond any feeling of comradery I might have had during team sports or school clubs. We are walking every day, eating the same meals, sleeping in the same places, repeating the next day, walking with a purpose. Though our bodies are beaten by the heat, the rain, blisters and bruises, there is a certain kind of compulsion that forms around this act of daily pilgrimage. We don’t want to stop, because it is slowly becoming a habit, but also because we are so connected to one another, one doesn’t want to stay behind. (There was a joke circulating around our camas today- what kind of pack animals would we consider our Camino family? Wolves, or donkeys? Well, we travel in a pack, so we would be wolves…but we carry packs, so we would be donkeys…would we be wonkeys? Yes, yes…)

There was an interesting discussion today around the Camino having not quite started yet for some people- it feels “too much like a vacation.” Because some of us are on time schedules (needing to finish the Camino by the end of this month, or only doing the Camino in parts, for example) we know we all need to say our goodbyes at some point soon. I’m trying to balance staying connected with these people, and continuing to stay open-hearted, while practicing non-attachment, and considering the fact that I might not get the chance to see them again. I think today these thoughts festered within me and overwhelmed me, and I needed to be alone to process all that has happened. I’m learning a valuable life lesson that wonderful people can float in and out of my life, and it’s so important to just be present and grateful for the time I have with them, precious and fleeting as it is.

Simultaneously I am also missing my loved ones back home, and have been carrying remorse for not being as present as I would have liked to have been before I left (It seemed I was existing in a stressed, excited daze the week before my departure for Europe). I hope that, upon my return, I can give them my full attention and the appreciation that they deserve.

Meeting others and hearing their intentions for their pilgrimages has also sparked my own reflection for why I chose this path. I met a wonderful woman who is walking the Camino for her son, and for her own healing; she inspired me to make prayer part of my journey. I also met a man with a heart condition who is walking for children in the world with terminal illnesses. Their pilgrimages were inspired by the relations they had with others, and finding peace. I can draw parallels to my own experiences and intentions for my Camino.

Waking up this morning to Marcus chuckling underneath me on the bottom bunk at the sound of my alarm (“Here Comes the Sun” by the Beatles) and hearing Shiloh and Linda stir across the room, saying “Guten morgun” through the lisp of my night guard, was probably one of the most precious morning moments so far. Or the time when Jess, Shiloh and I found a candy shop in Pamplona, indulging in sweet treats while making a trip to the farmacia for our foot rashes and blisters. Also our regular meetings for breakfast (café con leche and a pastry of some sort, or tortilla española), and the most invigorating sprint back to the albergue in Pamplona in the wind and rain from the restaurant (we ran so quickly and lightly without our packs! It was refreshing!) skipping and prancing throughout the glistening streets of that city, howling and shrieking from the cold with our warm full bellies…these are just some of the unforgettable moments we have created together.

It will be interesting to see how we all start to branch out from here. Some of us have considered our group to be a “nest”- but soon some of us will fly off to find our own way. However it turns out, I am so grateful to have had this first week be so nourishing and joyful. I am filled to the brim with happiness and bliss for all the lovely souls that have shined a light on my journey so far.

 

Casey- April 2nd

Casey- April 1st

In Puente la Reina.

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Casey- March 31

Snapshot before a scrumptious hearty meal, and a dash through the pouring rain back to the albergue

Snapshot before a scrumptious hearty meal, and a dash through the pouring rain back to the albergue

Where am I?

With family ❤️